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Chapter - 6, Vehicle Testing and Maintenance
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• Syllabus: Need of vehicle testing, Vehicle tests, standards, Different vehicle tests, Maintenance:, trouble shooting and service procedure, over, hauling, Engine tune up, Tools and equipment for, repair and overhauling, Pollution due to vehicle, emissions, Emission control system and regulations.
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Need of vehicle testing, • Automotive Industry is a highly competitive and, progressive industry all across the globe. To survive in, the market for a long period of time, automotive, industries need to be constantly innovative in terms of, quality, durability, etc. Also, the manufacturers of, vehicles need to ensure that the system and, components of the automobiles must function properly, throughout their working life. Although the, environment which the automobiles bear in a year or, year after year changes frequently, engineers need to, make use of highly sophisticated and innovated test, applications to enhance the performance of newly, launched products in highly effective and modern way.
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Why Requirement of Testing in, Automobile Industries Arises?, • With the growing rate of innovations in the, industry, the test engineers need to react, accordingly, to offer best testing solutions according, to the fast market changes, new launches and userfriendly testing solutions that can be implemented, easily for the highly advanced and new, technological changes. However, sometimes, complex testing need a highly effective and reliable, testing strategies, right from the research and, development till the final product is produced then, the engineers need to take active and quick, decisions instantly.
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• With the increasing production rate of automotive, components, risks with the manufacturing of the, products also increase which initiates the warranty, issues of the products and highlight the significance of, testing at every stage of production whether it is, research, development, raw material inspection or, product manufacturing., • With the increasing demand for automotive testing,, professionals have started considering the standards, that are used to test the automotive components, efficiently such as ISO, BIS, ASTM and many more., These standards are considered to design high-quality, testing machines to perform various types of tests that, measure the characteristics, properties and features of, vehicles and related components.
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Standards Introduced for Automobiles, Standard for Testing Effect of Ecological Conditions, , • Various environmental conditions such as wind,, humidity, cold, dampness, salt water, rain water,, heat, high temperature affect the quality and, appearance of the automotive products. The, environmental testing standards and highly, standardized testing equipment help to, authenticate the quality and fitness of the, automotive components. The range of automotive, testing equipment helps to create real working, conditions with different environmental factors., This helps to ascertain the effect of environmental, conditions on the automotive when they are, subjected to real working conditions.
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• To test the same, the test engineers have introduced, various types of environment testing chambers. These, chambers help to measure the effect of fluctuations in, temperature, altitude, and humidity and help to, determine the impact of salt spray and dust on the, materials. Other environmental benefits that can be, tested using testing machines are moist conditions,, solar radiations, thermal cycling, environmental stress, cracking resistance, the effect of weathering and UV, light conditions, etc. All the environmental test, conditions are created to check the reliability of the, automotive components in such environments and to, pinpoint the defects and weakness that are initiated at, the time of manufacturing.
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Standard for Testing Effect of Vibrant, Conditions, • Automotive components that are provided to the, conditions of stress, vibration, sudden shock, strains,, etc. during testing are subjected to such types of, dynamic stress testing to estimate the working life of, the automotive when they are operated on rough roads, with continuous movement on the engine., Automobiles are designed to withstand the mechanical, and physical forces but at the time of working many, problems arise such as flaws in structural elements,, loosening of fasteners, adhesives and other wear and, tear issues that can lead to the product failure and also, affects the product safety issues along with the cost of, the warranty.
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• The automotive testing equipment offers dynamic, testing of the products to assure that components, will survive for a long period of time. The samples, components that are kept for testing are subjected, to mechanical shocks and vibrant conditions clearly, explains the level of vehicles or can surpass those, levels to measure the actual performance and life of, the vehicles.
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Compliance of Testing Machines with, Standards, • It is important for all the manufacturers in, automotive industries to meet the standards that, are suggested and introduced by the, standardization authorities such as ASTM, BIS, ISO,, etc. The testing standards and quality measurement, techniques help to refine the quality of the vehicles, and help to reduce down the vibration and noise, while enhancing the fuel efficiency, quality and, overall performance of the products to serve the, best product to the customers.
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• Automotive testing machines make the things, promising for the manufacturers to provide a, comfortable, safe and high-performance vehicle to the, customers that can work efficiently for a long period, even in different weather conditions., How Automotive Testing Needs can be fulfilled?, • The manufacturers of testing machines offer a wide, assortment of testing solutions to the manufacturers of, vehicles in the form of testing machines, certifications,, etc. They offer best guidance to them in enhancing the, quality, reliability, cost effectiveness, and performance, of the vehicles according to the standards that are, introduced by various standardization authorities so, that high quality of automotive goods can be, manufactured.
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Automotive Testing Instruments, • The wide assortment of testing machines that are, available in the market to fulfill the requirements of, testing machine includes:, • UV light weathering testers, • Salt Spray Chambers, • Gloss meters, • Tensile testing machines, • Universal testing machines, • Din abrasion testers, • Color measurement devices such as colorimeters, and spectrophotometers, etc.
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Types of Automotive Testing, • The tests you select for your components have their, roots in the reasons you need testing. Tests, encompass the durability of your parts and the, environmental impact of operating them., Automotive testing procedures typically look at part, durability or exterior resilience. These two broad, categories have several tests within them, designed, to verify your parts’ ability to measure up to the, required standards.
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Tests for Part Durability, • The longevity of your components depends on, their ability to continue to perform under a, variety of stresses. Mechanical testing ensures, your parts will survive the onslaught of the, physical strain encountered during extreme, use. Here are nine common automotive parts, tests:
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1. Vibration Testing, • Driving creates constant vibrations on the vehicle’s frame and, components. Our vibration testing puts the car through, extremes to ensure durability. During vibration testing, ambient, movements in the building itself can contaminate the results,, but our facility accounts for environmental movement by using, high-mass bases and air-bearing pads. These devices ensure our, results are accurate., • Our testing equipment can exert up to 70,000 force pounds with, shakers working in tandem. A single shaker can apply up to, 45,000 force pounds. Testing accommodates 60 data channels., We give you immediate results as soon as the test finishes, and, you receive a thorough report., • Vibration testing helps you improve your component design by, identifying weak points when the part gets subjected to random, vibrations until failure. Because vibrations occur in all forms of, transportation, safety and longevity of parts both rely on being, able to withstand constant and erratic movements. To see how, much your components can take, you must put them through, vibration testing.
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2. Climatic Testing, • The environment plays a substantial role in, the lifespan of automobiles and their, components. Certain climates have conditions, that foster premature wear. Hot and cold, extremes can create stress on automotive, parts. We put parts through environmental, simulations to see how long the components, last. Climatic testing examines UV exposure,, heat, cold, dry and wet conditions.
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• Humidity levels matter, especially with metal parts, that can rust over time. That’s what makes humidity, testing important for car components. In many, areas, such as coastal locations or humid places, the, excessive moisture in the air could cause rusting of, the car’s coatings, wearing of the vehicle’s paint or, degrading of electrical parts. Because temperature, and humidity tend to rise together, we often test, both in tandem.
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3. Mechanical Testing, • Mechanical operations can wear over time and, become less efficient. With automobiles that rely, on both electrical and mechanical systems, running at their peak for the vehicle to continue, working, physical operation testing is, critical. Automotive mechanical tests include, examining engine performance and efficiency, from a variety of systems. We conduct leak, detection, fluid dynamics analysis, stress testing, and more. Our testing ensures your engines meet, or exceed the regulatory requirements without, sacrificing the performance consumers need from, your brand.
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4. Pressure Impulse Testing, • Pressure impulse testing puts your system’s hydraulic, components through their paces. Multiple systems use fluid, movement to create mechanical motion. Regular tests ensure, the system maintains pressure and operates as expected for, the anticipated lifespan. New designs or models should, undergo rigorous testing to prove their performance level, matches or exceeds the previous iterations. Pressure impulse, testing can help measure the effectiveness of the hydraulic, system., • At NTS, our pressure impulse testing equipment can test both, dynamic and static pressures. Our testing apparatuses, which, includes both rotary and linear servo-hydraulic actuators,, reaches up to 8,000 psi at 30,000 Hz. For static testing, our, setup can reach even higher pressures of 30,000 psi. In, addition to examining the impacts of stress during the test,, we can also measure torque, strain, flow and force.
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5. Emissions Control Systems Testing, • Reducing pollution is more important than ever. A, single passenger car creates an average of 4.6, metric tons of carbon dioxide annually. In addition, to carbon dioxide, internal combustion engines also, release other harmful substances. To mitigate the, effects of these pollutants on the environment, the, federal government has set standards for emissions., Engine components and emissions systems must be, tested to determine the amount of greenhouse, gases they emit. Without appropriate testing,, polluting engines could net their manufacturers, hefty fines from both the federal and local, governments.
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6. Emissions Bench Testing, • The EPA has ever strengthening requirements for greenhouse, gas emissions from on-road vehicles. A typical emissions, bench can measure the amounts of carbon monoxide,, methane, hydrocarbons, nitrogen oxides and carbon, dioxide. Adhering to the EPA’s requirements is critical to avoid, fines. Luckily, 19 out of 21 vehicle manufacturers did not, carry an emissions deficit from 2016 to 2017. Companies that, held debt had only three years to break even on greenhouse, gas emissions by lowering the amounts from their vehicles to, comply with federal standards. Between 2012 and 2025, the, EPA will increase the standards, becoming stricter over time, to reduce greenhouse emissions. Bench testing of gaseous, outputs from an engine can verify compliance to guide the, manufacturer to make changes to the engine’s design.
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7. Cat Aging Testing, • As a catalytic converter ages, it becomes less, efficient. The catalytic converter is an essential, component of the emission control system. Some, states have strict requirements for the catalytic, converters that can be installed on cars sold in, those places. Catalytic converter function is vital for, the engine’s ability to adhere to emissions, requirements, and premature failure of a catalytic, converter could indicate a product that needs a, redesign.
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• To test how quickly a catalytic converter’s effectiveness, reduces, you’ll need aging cat automotive testing services., These services can test a catalytic converter’s limits without, waiting for the average 100,000 miles required to reach its, typical lifespan. Additionally, catalytic converters age faster, when oil leaks from the engine. The aging test program can, see what happens to a catalytic converter over time with or, without oil contaminating the system., • Creating reliable catalytic converters is essential for vehicle, emissions systems and car owners. Typically, the lifespan of, the catalytic converter is the same as how long a typical, driver uses the vehicle. These similar time spans are, advantageous because replacing catalytic converters is, extremely expensive due to the precious metals used in the, catalytic converter’s construction. If a driver fails to replace, the catalytic converter, they will contribute far more, pollutants to the air the catalytic converter would normally, have neutralized. Ensuring the long life of a catalytic, converter can prevent this scenario from occurring.
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8. SHED Testing, • SHED stands for sealed housing evaporative, determination. This testing method allows for the, measurement of evaporative emissions from an engine., Due to stricter emissions laws, this type of automotive, testing is likely to become even more popular in the, coming years. The SHED is a measuring device that, measures the emissions from a fuel system or a system, component., • Unlike other tests that examine individual components,, the SHED testing can measure the amount of, evaporative emissions from the fuel system. Testing of, smaller parts requires mini or micro SHEDs. Measuring, the amounts of evaporative emissions means testing, the efficiency of the fuel system’s ability to collect and, release fuel vapors.
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9. Canister Loading Testing, • Canister loading tests the filling and purging of, evaporative emissions canisters. Testing the canister, load and purge ensures the evaporative emissions, system accurately cuts down on pollutants escaping, from the fuel system. The ability of a canister to, absorb and release fuel vapors is a crucial, component of the evaporative emissions system., Without a canister that loads and purges, appropriately, the vehicle will be more polluting and, run much less efficiently.
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Exterior Tests, • The exterior of a vehicle protects the interior, and if, it cannot stand up to standard stress, it will, undoubtedly fail during unusual circumstances., Paint and coatings on cars protect the vehicle from, rust and wear. But some environmental, components such as gravel, sea spray and road salt, can prematurely corrode the paint or coating., Testing verifies the durability of a surface layer in, these extreme cases.
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1. Coatings and Paint Testing, • Testing paint and exterior coatings ensures those coverings, prove as durable as expected. Our paint and coating tests, include examining abrasion and weather resistance. Testers, put the paint through a variety of test programs to determine, the reliability of the product. Only when the coatings pass the, tests can they be used for vehicles., • Testers subject the paint to multiple stresses. Abrasion testing, scuffs the paint to see the level of scratching the paint can, withstand. The ability of paint to avoid showing damage from, minor scratches is highly desirable for consumers., Additionally, this resistance to damage increases the lifespan, of the vehicle’s coating. Though aftermarket paint jobs are, available, most consumers want the paint on their car to last, for the life of the vehicle.
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• Salt fog replicates the paint’s exposure to road salt or, sea salt spray. While not every climate will need this, test, it’s critical for places with cold winters or coastal, exposure. Even in locations that don’t necessarily need, salt fog tests, weather testing for paint durability in rain, and sun is required. At NTS, we put paint through 1,000, to 2,000 hours of rain and ultraviolet light exposure., Temperatures also range from high to low extremes to, determine the paint’s strength., • Chemical resistance tests the paint’s ability to remain, looking good when exposed to automotive fluids such, as antifreeze, coolant, windshield wiper fluid, oil and, gasoline. Because it’s inevitable that the paint will be, subjected to these substances, quality performance in, the chemical resistance tests is essential to the paint’s, passing the barrage of studies.
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2. Gravelometer Testing, • Gravelometer testing is another means of, measuring a coating’s resistance to abrasions. In a, gravelometer test, the samples have 300 pieces of, gravel heaved at them by the machine’s air, pressure. How much of the coating gets chipped off, determines the results of the test. We do our, testing to ASTM and SAE standards, so the final, scores from this test and all our automotive testing, programs can be trusted to be accurate.
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Autonomous Vehicle Manufacturing Testing, • Autonomous vehicle manufacturing, testing ensures that self-driving cars are safe for, people both inside and outside of the vehicle. With, self-driving cars come many new safety hazards that, aren’t a factor with manually driven cars. Concerns, surrounding self-driving vehicles include safety of, the vehicle, the safety of others, and how, autonomous vehicles will respond in emergency, situations. The testing of these vehicles includes, testing both mechanical and electrical components, of the cars. At NTS, we have experts who can help, you test autonomous vehicles for safety and, performance.
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Automotive Testing You Can Trust From NTS, • You need accurate results when you have your, components tested. We use industry standards to, create our testing procedures, so you can be, assured of reliable reports. We have the equipment, and professionals who will perform the automotive, testing services you require for performance or, regulatory compliance. Contact us at NTS for a, quote for any automotive testing you need. Our, professionals are here to lend their expertise to, your situation.
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MAINTENANCE AND SERVICING:, • As you may be aware, there is an increase in the number of, vehicles, such as motorcycle, scooter, bus, car, jeep, tempo,, truck, tanker, etc., running in the cities. Every new vehicle, comes with a vehicle maintenance manual. The owner of the, vehicle is expected to read and use this manual, as it, mentions vehicle maintenance tips during driving. It has been, noticed that after getting a car or vehicle, the owners do not, care much about a regular car or vehicle maintenance. Even if, the owners regularly service their vehicle, the vehicle, maintenance tips given in the vehicle maintenance manual, increases the longevity or life of the vehicle to a great extent., Vehicle maintenance and servicing is carried out when the, vehicle completes certain kilometres on its normal running or, when the vehicle does not give proper performance. It is, suggested that the vehicle owners carry out regular and, periodical checks on their vehicle, some of which are, mentioned below.
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Daily Inspection (DI):, • It is the responsibility of a driver or owner of a, vehicle to carry out the following inspection and, checks daily, before starting the engine, to avoid, any type of breakdown on the road., (i) Check tyre pressure in all the tyres visually or by, hitting the tyre wall with the help of a stone and, judge the sound, (ii) Check the radiator’s coolant level, (iii) Check the fan belts for looseness, (iv) Check the level of engine oil, (v) Check the windscreen, rear-view mirror and, rear-window glass for their cleanliness
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• Maintenance Check-up:, When one plans a long distance travel, it is necessary to, carry out a routine check-up. One should read the, vehicle maintenance manual for clarity. Some, important check-ups are done for better maintenance, (see Fig. 6.1)., (i) Topping of oil level, (ii) Proper tension of belt, (iii) Battery for cleanliness and level of electrolyte (add, only distilled water for topping of electrolyte water), (iv) Brakes, (v) Topping up of coolant, if required, in the coolant, reservoir, (vi) Checking the serviceability of cooling system hoses, (vii) Proper tyre inflation pressure, (viii) Air conditioning
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• Vehicle maintenance is generally done at a, vehicle service centre. You could make a visit, to a nearby vehicle service centre to see how, a vehicle is maintained and what all checks are, carried out by service mechanic. Some, important check-ups are discussed here.
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• Check or Top-up All Vehicles’: Oil Levels Service, mechanic, with the help of a measuring stick,, checks the engine oil, coolant, brake oil and water., During routine check-up, oil, water and coolants are, topped up or otherwise they are changed (Fig. 6.2).
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• Belt Check-up:, Checking of belt is very important. If it is loose or, broken, then it needs to be replaced immediately.
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• Battery:, It is a very important component of a vehicle. It should be checked, regularly. Battery electrolyte (distilled water) is checked by removing, the battery caps and looking inside. If the level is low, it is topped up, with distilled water. Nowadays, batteries are maintenance-free which, means they have sealed caps and require no checking. But, some, batteries though said to be maintenance-free, do have removable, caps. These should be checked in the usual manner (Fig. 6.3).
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Brakes:, The service mechanic checks the brake by pushing the, pedal. If there is need of servicing, the service mechanic, informs the customer accordingly (Fig. 6.4)., Cooling System:, The technician checks the cooling system by topping up, the coolant. The cooling system should be refilled with the, correct coolant, and not with water alone (Fig. 6.5).
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• Air Conditioning :, , • The service mechanic checks cooling and heating by examining if the airflow is, coming from all appropriate vents., , • Tyres:, , The mechanic at the service station (see Fig. 6.7) examines the tyres by checking, correct tyre pressure, and also checks whether there is any external damage (Fig., 6.6). The safety rules to be followed during servicing of vehicle include: (i) Always, select appropriate tools for a specific job. An inapt tool could damage the part, being worked on and could cause one to get hurt (ii) Keep tools and equipment, under control (iii) Wipe excess oil and grease off hands and tools so that one can, get a good grip on tools or parts (iv) Work quietly and with full concentration (v), Keep jack handles out of the way. Stand the creeper against the wall when not in, use (vi) Do not put sharp objects, such as screwdrivers, in one’s pocket. One could, cut oneself or get stabbed, or could damage the seat (vii) Make sure that the, technician’s clothes are right for the job and one wears full leather safety shoes, (viii) If oil, grease, or any liquid spills on the floor, clean it up to avoid falls (ix), Always wear eye protection when using a grinding wheel or welding equipment, or, while working with chemicals, such as solvents (x) While using a jack, place it, properly to avoid slip (xi) Never run an engine in a closed garage or service station, that does not have proper ventilation system. The exhaust gases contain carbon, monoxide, a colourless, odourless, tasteless poisonous gas that can be toxic.
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•, •, , •, , •, , What should I know about the parts to be repaired, or replaced?, Parts are classified as:, New — These parts generally are made to original, manufacturer’s specifications, either by the vehicle, manufacturer or an independent company. Your state may, require repair shops to tell you if non-original equipment will, be used in the repair. Prices and quality of these parts vary., Remanufactured, rebuilt and reconditioned — These terms, generally mean the same thing: parts have been restored to a, sound working condition. Many manufacturers offer a, warranty covering replacement parts, but not the labor to, install them., Salvage — These are used parts taken from another vehicle, without alteration. Salvage parts may be the only source for, certain items, though their reliability is seldom guaranteed.
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What do I need after the work is done?, • Get a completed repair order describing the, work done. It should list each repair, parts, supplied, the cost of each part, labor charges,, and the vehicle’s odometer reading when you, brought the vehicle in as well as when the, repair order was completed. Ask for all, replaced parts. State law may require this.
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Preventive Maintenance, • What are the consequences of postponing, maintenance?, • Many parts on your vehicle are interrelated., Ignoring maintenance can lead to trouble: specific, parts — or an entire system — can fail. Neglecting, even simple routine maintenance, like changing the, oil or checking the coolant, can lead to poor fuel, economy, unreliability, or costly breakdowns. It also, may invalidate your warranty.
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• What maintenance guidelines should I follow to, avoid costly repairs?, • Follow the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule in, your owner’s manual for your type of driving. Some, repair shops create their own maintenance, schedules, which call for more frequent servicing, than the manufacturer’s recommendations., Compare shop maintenance schedules with those, recommended in your owner’s manual. Ask the, repair shop to explain — and make sure you, understand — why it recommends service beyond, the recommended schedule.
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Protecting Your Auto Repair Investment, • What warranties and service contracts apply to, vehicle repairs?, • Warranties, • There is no “standard warranty” on repairs. Make sure, you understand what is covered under your warranty, and get it in writing., • Warranties may be subject to limitations, including, time, mileage, deductibles, businesses authorized to, perform warranty work or special procedures required, to obtain reimbursement., • Check with your state Attorney General or local, consumer protection agency for information about, your warranty rights.
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• Service Contracts, • Many automobile dealers and others sell optional contracts —, service contracts — issued by vehicle manufacturers or, independent companies. Not all service contracts are the same;, prices vary and usually are negotiable. To help decide whether to, purchase a service contract, consider:, • Its cost., • The repairs to be covered., • Whether coverage overlaps coverage provided by any other, warranty., • The deductible., • Where the repairs are to be performed., • Procedures required to file a claim, like prior authorization for, specific repairs or meeting required vehicle maintenance, schedules., • Whether repair costs are paid directly by the company to the, repair shop or whether you will have to pay first and get, reimbursed.
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• How do I resolve a dispute regarding billing,, quality of repairs or warranties?, • Document all transactions as well as your, experiences with dates, times, expenses, and the, names of people you dealt with., • Talk to the shop manager or owner first. If that, doesn’t work, contact your Attorney General or, local consumer protection agency for help. These, offices may have information on alternative dispute, resolution programs in your community. Another, option is to file a claim in small claims court. You, don’t need an attorney to do this.
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Heading Off Problems, • The more you know about your vehicle, the more, likely you’ll be able to head off repair problems. You, can detect many common vehicle problems by, using your senses: eyeballing the area around your, vehicle, listening for strange noises, sensing a, difference in the way your vehicle handles, or even, noticing unusual odors., • Looks Like Trouble, • Small stains or an occasional drop of fluid under, your vehicle may not mean much. But wet spots, deserve attention; check puddles immediately.
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• You can identify fluids by their color and, consistency:, • Yellowish green, pastel blue or florescent orange, colors indicate an overheated engine or an, antifreeze leak caused by a bad hose, water pump, or leaking radiator., • A dark brown or black oily fluid means the engine is, leaking oil. A bad seal or gasket could cause the, leak., • A red oily spot indicates a transmission or powersteering fluid leak., • A puddle of clear water usually is no problem. It, may be normal condensation from your vehicle’s air, conditioner.
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• Smells Like Trouble, • Some problems are under your nose. You can detect, them by their odor:, • The smell of burned toast — a light, sharp odor —, often signals an electrical short and burning, insulation. To be safe, try not to drive the vehicle, until the problem is diagnosed., • The smell of rotten eggs — a continuous burningsulphur smell — usually indicates a problem in the, catalytic converter or other emission control, devices. Don’t delay diagnosis and repair., • A thick acrid odor usually means burning oil. Look, for sign of a leak.
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• The smell of gasoline vapors after a failed start may mean you, have flooded the engine. Wait a few minutes before trying, again. If the odor persists, chances are there’s a leak in the, fuel system — a potentially dangerous problem that needs, immediate attention., • Burning resin or an acrid chemical odor may signal, overheated brakes or clutch. Check the parking brake. Stop., Allow the brakes to cool after repeated hard braking on, mountain roads. Light smoke coming from a wheel indicates a, stuck brake. The vehicle should be towed for repair., • A sweet, steamy odor indicates a coolant leak. If the, temperature gauge or warning light does not indicate, overheating, drive carefully to the nearest service station,, keeping an eye on your gauges. If the odor is accompanied by, a hot, metallic scent and steam from under the hood, your, engine has overheated. Pull over immediately. Continued, driving could cause severe engine damage. The vehicle should, be towed for repair.
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• Sounds Like Trouble, • Squeaks, squeals, rattles, rumbles, and other, sounds provide valuable clues about problems and, maintenance needs. Here are some common noises, and what they mean:, • Squeal — A shrill, sharp noise, usually related to, engine speed:, • Loose or worn power steering, fan or air, conditioning belt.
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• Click — A slight sharp noise, related to either engine, speed, • or vehicle speed:, • Loose wheel cover., • Loose or bent fan blade., • Stuck valve lifter or low engine oil., • Screech — A high-pitched, piercing metallic sound;, usually occurs while the vehicle is in motion:, • Caused by brake wear indicators to let you know it’s, time for maintenance., • Rumble — a low-pitched rhythmic sound:, • Defective exhaust pipe, converter or muffler., • Worn universal joint or other drive-line component.
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• Ping — A high-pitched metallic tapping sound, related, to engine speed:, • Usually caused by using gas with a lower octane rating, than recommended. Check your owner’s manual for, the proper octane rating. If the problem persists,, engine ignition timing could be at fault., • Heavy Knock — A rhythmic pounding sound:, • Worn crankshaft or connecting rod bearings., • Loose transmission torque converter., • Clunk — A random thumping sound:, • Loose shock absorber or other suspension component., • Loose exhaust pipe or muffler.
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• Feels Like Trouble, • Difficult handling, a rough ride, vibration and poor, performance are symptoms you can feel. They, almost always indicate a problem., Steering, • Misaligned front wheels and/or worn steering, components, like the idler or ball joint, can cause, wandering or difficulty steering in a straight line., • Pulling — the vehicle’s tendency to steer to the left, or right — can be caused by something as routine, as under-inflated tires, or as serious as a damaged, or misaligned front end.
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• Ride and Handling, • Worn shock absorbers or other suspension, components — or improper tire inflation — can, contribute to poor cornering., • While there is no hard and fast rule about when to, replace shock absorbers or struts, try this test: bounce, the vehicle up and down hard at each wheel and then, let go. See how many times the vehicle bounces. Weak, shocks will allow the vehicle to bounce twice or more., • Springs do not normally wear out and do not need, replacement unless one corner of the vehicle is lower, than the others. Overloading your vehicle can damage, the springs., • Balance tires properly. An unbalanced or improperly, balanced tire causes a vehicle to vibrate and may wear, steering and suspension components prematurely.
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Brakes:, • Brake problems have several symptoms. Schedule diagnosis and, repair if:, • The vehicle pulls to one side when the brakes are applied., • The brake pedal sinks to the floor when pressure is maintained., • You hear or feel scraping or grinding during braking., • The “brake” light on the instrument panel is lit., Engine:, • The following symptoms indicate engine trouble. Get a diagnosis, and schedule the repair., • Difficulty starting the engine., • The “check engine” light on the instrument panel is lit., • Rough idling or stalling., • Poor acceleration., • Poor fuel economy., • Excessive oil use (more than one quart between changes)., • Engine continues running after the key is removed.
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• Transmission, • Poor transmission performance may come from, actual component failure or a simple disconnected, hose or plugged filter. Make sure the technician, checks the simple items first; transmission repairs, normally are expensive. Some of the most common, symptoms of transmission problems are:, • Abrupt or hard shifts between gears., • Delayed or no response when shifting from neutral, to drive or reverse., • Failure to shift during normal acceleration., • Slippage during acceleration. The engine speeds up,, but the vehicle does not respond.
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• Trouble Shooting, • Car trouble doesn’t always mean major repairs., Here are some common causes of trouble and, techniques to help you and your technician find and, fix problems:, • Alternator — Loose wiring can make your, alternator appear defective. Your technician should, check for loose connections and perform an output, test before replacing the alternator., • Battery — Corroded or loose battery terminals can, make the battery appear dead or defective. Your, technician should clean the terminals and test, battery function before replacing the battery.
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• Starter — What appears to be a defective starter, actually may be a dead battery or poor connection., Ask your technician to check all connections and, test the battery before repairing the starter., • Muffler — a loud rumbling noise under your vehicle, indicates a need for a new muffler or exhaust pipe., • Tune-up — The old-fashioned “tune-up” may not be, relevant to your vehicle. Fewer parts, other than, belts, spark plugs, hoses and filters, need to be, replaced on newer vehicles. Follow the, recommendations in your owner’s manual.
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over hauling:, , •, •, •, •, •, , The process of rebuilding or replacing all of the, major components of an old, tired engine. Can be, much cheaper than a new car, but it should be done, by a mechanic who is truly qualified, lest your, vehicle turns into a money pit., THERE ARE MANY REASONS TO OVERHAUL YOUR, CAR ENGINE:, Engine Oil is missing, Your Fuel Efficiency is dropping, Engine sounding weird, Engine overheating, Smoke billowing from exhaust pipe
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• Engine overhaul is basically giving your engine a new life. Most, engine wears out over time due to heat and normal wear and tear., Some engine deteriorate quicker than others from being driven, too hard like a race car. Or it’s affected by not enough engine oil,, or lack of maintenance. The list goes on., • In short, everything has a shell life. And your engine is no different., When you notice your engine oil level is always dropping, fuel, efficiency is not as good as before or there are weird sound, coming from the engine, it’s best to consult a mechanic to check of, there is a need to overhaul your engine., • Overhauling your engine is not a simple task. It consist of, deconstructing of the engine and having new internal components, such as new pistons, piston rings, main bearings, valves and, springs. There are many more steps to be listed but just know that, other than the engine, everything inside will be new!, • The engine is removed from the chassis for this job, instead of, leaving it in the chassis of your car. The process typically takes, about a week to complete as all parts are dissembled and then, fixing them back again.
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• The benefits of overhauling your engine is pretty, obvious. You will enjoy the engine like it’s brand new., Better fuel consumption will be seen. More quieter, engine like a new car and the power of your engine will, be back!, • A good overhaul can last you for another good 5 to 10, years. It’s as if you got a new car all over again for the, next decade., • As there are no real timeline on when you should do an, engine overhaul. But we suggest that you perform an, engine overhaul if you’re going to renew your COE., Because why not?, • Here are some of the view you may not seen before., This is how dirty or worn out you may call it when your, engine has been working hard for about 10 years.
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Engine Tune Up, • Tune ups are definitely still needed, but will largely, have to do with inspecting and ensuring that the, carburetor is running ok with the correct balance of, air and fuel. Tune ups also look at replacing, if, necessary, parts of the ignition system. These, include vital car parts like spark plugs and a, distributor rotor
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What is an engine tune-up?, • As our engines have changed over time, so have our engine, tune-ups. In the past, it was necessary to check and change, many more parts. Today, engine tune-ups include checking,, diagnosing, and replacing bad spark plugs, spark plug wires,, distributor caps, fuel filters, air filters, and oil filters. Tune-ups, can also include checking emission levels, fuel lines, wiring,, coolant hoses, and serpentine belts. Checking items such as, ignition contact points, ignition timing, carburetors, and, condensers aren’t included anymore because today’s vehicles, include electronic ignitions as well as computers that, automatically adjust engine timing when necessary. These, tune-ups keep your engine running as efficiently as possible, and prevent early breakdown. Regular tune-ups will also, extend the life of your vehicle.
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Why do I need an engine tune-up?, • If regular maintenance and inspection isn’t performed on your engine, your vehicle, may not be operating as reliably or efficiently as it should. A well-tuned engine, operates at maximum performance levels. During a tune-up, engine parts that, affect performance are checked and replaced. Spark plugs create an electrical spark, that ignites the gasoline/air mixture in your engine. They create, and must be able, to withstand, a tremendous amount of voltage and heat. If your engine’s spark, plugs aren’t working properly, your engine can stall and may not even start. Spark, plug wires are also very important. They have to be able to transfer and withstand, the voltage created by the spark plug. If they are old, they can burn out and cause a, misfire. Fuel and air filters are two more items that are checked during an engine, tune-up. These two items affect engine performance and gas mileage. Fuel filters, help protect your engine’s fuel system. They trap dirt and other debris in your fuel, and don’t allow them to reach your engine. Over time, a fuel filter will clog and, won’t allow fuel to flow freely. This can lead to poor acceleration and poor engine, performance. Engines also require a free flow of clean air to operate. Outside air, travels through the air filter and mixes with your vehicle’s fuel to power your, engine. Air filters trap the dirt and other debris from the outside air. As with fuel, filters, air filters can clog over time. A dirty air filter can cause your vehicle to lose, up to 20 horsepower, while making your engine work harder, since it restricts, airflow. A dirty air filter will also reduce your gas mileage. Your engine requires the, exact amount of air and fuel, but with decreased airflow there is less air mixing, with your vehicle’s fuel; therefore, your engine uses more fuel to compensate.
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Tune-up Requirements, • The routine minor tune-up is usually carried out to restore engine, performance after running of a number of kilometers. The minor, tune-up is the type of tune-up usually done by service stations and, by individuals who maintain their own automobiles using common, tools and a limited amount of test equipments. When a minor, tune-up does not rectify a problem, more extensive use of test, equipment is required to pinpoint the cause of a problem. Most, problems can be detected during a major tune-up or by, specialized test made on the specific system, which is, malfunctioning., • An engine tune-up is a procedure performed on an engine to make, it develop its best performance while it produces the lowest, possible emissions. It is usually done at periodic intervals when, engine performance has deteriorated or when the operator wants, to be sure of having dependable service on a trip or in winter, weather. A tune-up may also be run as a troubleshooting sequence, when some abnormal engine condition is indicated.
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• The minor tune-up consists of a visual inspection, routine, mechanical service, and instrument tests. The visual, inspection includes checking the engine mounting and, attachments for abnormal conditions, such as inspecting the, condition of all wires, hoses, belts, and carburettor linkages., The engine should be examined for coolant, fuel, oil, and, exhaust leaks. Any defects that could affect engine operation, or vehicle safety should be repaired. This might include, mechanical service such as freeing the heat riser, retorquing, belts, and adjusting belts. Mechanical service also includes, servicing the spark plugs and ignition points. It usually, includes cleaning or replacing air and fuel filters and making, sure that the vehicle has an adequate supply of oil, coolant,, and brake fluid. Instrument checks include engine basic, timing, operation of timing advance mechanisms, and setting, engine idle. The minor tune-up might also include the, cylinder balance test and a check of the emission-control, component operation.
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• A tune-up cannot produce satisfactory engine, operation if the combustion chamber doesn’t, hold compression. Most tune-up technician, follow a battery check by removing the spark, plugs and checking each combustion chamber, for its ability to compress the gases. This can, be done either by a compression test or a, cylinder leakage test.
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Tune-up Sequence, • The engine tune-up restores driveability, power, performance,, emission control, and economy that have been lost through, wear, corrosion, and deterioration of engine parts. A tune-up, sequence for an automobile engine is presented below., (i) First operate the cold engine (normal for 20 minutes at, 1500 rpm) until it reaches operating temperature. Any, operational problems during this warm-up time should be, observed., («) Connect the oscilloscope and exhaust-gas analyzer, appropriately. Check for any, abnormal condition and, if possible, the cylinder(s) in which it, appears. (Hi) Remove all spark plugs, and fully open the, throttle and choke valves. Disconnect the distributor lead, from the terminal of the primary coil to avoid excessive, secondary voltage.
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• (iv) Check the compression of each cylinder. If one or more, cylinder read low, squirt about 15 cc of engine oil through the, spark-plug hole and recheck the compression. For further, diagnosis of engine mechanical problems, perform a cylinder, leakage test., (v) Clean, inspect, file, and test the spark plugs. Reject worn, or defective spark plugs. Many technicians install all new, plugs instead of servicing the old plugs. Gap correctly all, plugs, both old and new and then install them., • (vi) Inspect and clean the battery case, terminals, cables, and, hold-down brackets. Test the battery. Add water, if necessary., Incase of severe corrosion, clean the battery and cables with, brushes and a solution of baking soda and water. If the, battery is old, it might have worn out, and then a new battery, may be required., (vii) Test the cranking voltage. If the battery is in good, condition but cranking speed is low, then check the starting, system.
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• (viii) If the battery voltage is low or the customer complains, that the battery keeps running down, check the charging, system (alternator and regulator)., (ix) Check the drive belts and replace if they are in poor, condition. If it is required to replace one belt of a two-belt, drive system replace both belts. Check the belt. tension, using, a belt-tension gauge., Ox) Inspect the distributor rotor, cap, and primary and high, voltage (spark-plug) wires., (xi) Clean or replace and adjust distributor contact point gap., Lubricate the distributor breaker cam. On distributors with, round cam lubricators, turn the cam lubricator 180 degrees or, replace it if required., (xii) Check the distributor cap and rotor. Check also the, centrifugal and vacuum advances. Set the dwell and then, adjust ignition timing. Ensure that the idle speed is not too, high as this can produce centrifugal advance during timing, adjustment.
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• (xiii) Recheck the ignition system with the oscilloscope., Any abnormal conditions that, appeared in step («) should now be eliminated. (xiu), Inspect the manifold heat-control valve and lubricate it, with heat-valve lubricant. Free, or replace the valve if necessary., • (xv) Check the operation of fuel-pump using a fuelpump tester. Replace the fuel filter. Check the fuel-tank, cap, fuel lines, and connections for leakage and, damage., (xvi) Clean or replace the filter of the air-cleaner. In, case the engine is fitted with a thermostatic air cleaner,, check the operation of the vacuum motor., (xvii) Check the functioning of the choke and the fastidle cam. Also check the throttle valve for its full, opening, and the throttle linkage for its free movement., Clean all external carburettor linkages.
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• (xviii) Inspect all engine vacuum fittings, hoses, and, connection. Replace brittle or cracked hose if any., (xix) If the engine is fitted with a filter-type oil-filler, cap, clean the engine oil-filter cap., (xx) Inspect in the cooling system all hoses and, connections, the radiator, water pump, and fan, clutch, if used. Check and maintain the strength of, the antifreeze. Pressure-check the system and, radiator cap Replace defective hose, if any., (xxi) Check and replace the PCV valve if necessary., Clean or replace the air filter of the PCV-system, if, required. Inspect the PCV hoses and connections., Replace any cracked or brittle hose. Test the system, for vacuum sealing.
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•, , (xxii) In case the engine is fitted with an air pump, replace the, pump inlet air filter, if necessary. Check and replace the, system hoses and connections, if required., (xxiii) Replace the charcoal-canister air filter, if necessary, in, the evaporative emission control system., (xxiv) Check the transmission-controlled spark system if fitted, with the vehicle., (xxv) Inspect and clean the EGR valve, and EGR discharge, port. Apply vacuum to the valve with engine at idle and check, system operation. If engine runs rough, then smooth out, without application of vacuum., (xxvi) If the engine is fitted with a turbocharger, check the, operation of the waste-gate as per the manufacturer’s, instruction., • (xxvii) Tighten the intake-manifold and exhaust-manifold bolts, to the specified torque following the proper sequence., (xxviii) Check and adjust the engine valves if required.
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• (xxix) Adjust the engine idle speed. Adjust the idle-mixture, screw on older cars using an exhaust-gas analyzer, and, propane if required. On newer cars, as the screw is sealed, it, cannot be adjusted without disassembling the carburettor., Check the amount of HC, and CO in the exhaust gas. It is preferable to check the HC and, CO both before and after a tune-up to know how much the, tune-up has reduced these pollutants., (xxx) Road-test the car on a dynamometer or on the road., Check for driveability, power, and idling. Any abnormal, condition should be noted for repair., (xxxi) Check the lubrication or refer to the maintenance, sticker to know whether an oil and oil-filter change is due., Also note the schedule for chassis lubrication. Recommend an, oil change and chassis lubrication if they are due., (xxxii) Whenever the speed is raised, check the exhaust, system for leaks, which can allow carbon monoxide into the, passenger compartment. Also check for loose bolts, rust, spots, and other under-the-car damage.
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Tune-up Tests Procedure, • Several tests are conducted before the engine is, started. In addition to the battery check, the breaker, point resistance, the cranking voltage, cranking, vacuum, and cranking coil output may be checked., Attach the instruments, run the engine at idle and, check for dwell, idle speed, and basic engine timing., To use timing light, connect the pick-up cable to, number one ignition cable and connect the light to its, proper power source, either the vehicle battery or, the shop 230V/110V line. It is most important on, most emission-controlled engine to attach this timing, light pickup to number one spark plug cable even if it, is not as accessible as one of the other spark plugs., Set the parking brake and place the transmission in, neutral, then start the engine.
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• Let it run slowly at curb idle with the vacuum line to the, distributor removed and plugged so that air does not, enter into the carburettor. With the timing light aimed, at the timing marks, and the hold-down clamp slightly, loose, adjust the distributor until ignition occurs at the, specified degree. Tighten the hold-down clamp and, recheck the timing. Readjust the timing if necessary,, and then reconnect the distributor vacuum line., • Two instruments are used to test the overall operating, system. The ignition scope shows voltage being, developed in the ignition system and the hydrocarboncarbon monoxide (HC-CO) tester shows the relative, amount of these gases being produced by the engine.
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• Once trained to recognize scope patterns and HC-CO values, a, quick but detailed look at the patterns and instrument, readings as the engine speeds are changed provide an overall, indication of engine operation. Properly using these testers,, one can analyze the functioning of the entire system and can, pinpoint the cause of a problem, if exists., Required voltage is considered to be the voltage indicated by, the top of the spike on a scope pattern. The engine runs as, long as the ignition system has more voltage available than, that required by the engine. The ignition system available, voltage can be measured on the scope by setting the scope, pattern dwell line on the zero volt line and then removing one, of the spark plug cables to force a voltage increase on that, cable, causing the ignition system to develop full voltage. For, normal operation the ignition system should be able to, produce more than 20 kV available to fire the spark plug., High-energy systems produce over 30 kV.
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• The HC-CO tester is a useful tool for checking the, overall operation of the engine. Ti amount of, carbon monoxide available in the exhaust is, affected by the carburettor operation. High carbon, monoxide results from rich mixtures and low, carbon monoxide from lean mixtures. During, normal operation of the engine, low hydrocarbon, emissions are produced. Incomplete combustion, produces excessive hydrocarbons in the exhaust., High hydrocarbon readings result, from rich or excessively lean mixtures, and from, engine misfiring. It also is high if the ignition timing, is not correct. This could be the result of an, inoperative emission-control unit.
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• In general terms, the engine idle should be adjusted to, operate with the lowest hydrocarbon reading possible,, and this requires lean carburettor mixtures. Emissions, should decrease as the engine speed is increased above, idle., The engine is brought up to a specified test speed,, between 1500 and 2000 rpm or the one recommended, by the manufacturer. The engine scope indicates coil, polarity, required voltage, available voltage, breaker, point action, ignition system leakage (shown as the tail, missing on the available voltage spike in Fig. 19.18), and, ignition system resistance. The HC-CO tester indicates, the engine operating condition. Interpretation of these, readings indicates the problems that exist in the engine, systems.
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• The engine is returned to idle to check idle speed,, manifold vacuum, and HC-CO if the tester is used. Quick, accelerations from idle put a load on the park plugs and, the engine scope indicates if the spark plugs are firing, normally. The HC-CO tester indicates momentary high, readings as the acceleration pump operates., The instrument test may precede or follow standard, tune-up service operations, such as distributor service,, carburation service, air and fuel filter service, and valve, lash adjustment on solid lifter engines. Test may, indicate the necessary additional tests or adjustments., These include battery circuit voltage drop, starter, amperage draw, generator output, charging circuits, voltage drop, regulator setting, ignition primary circuit, voltage drop, fuel pump tests, carburettor rebuilding,, and tests of the filler cap and thermostat of the cooling, system.
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• The tune-up sequence may be used before or after, routine service. Running the tune-up test sequence, before performing routine service points to items that, require special service, limits the servicing, insures, satisfactory workmanship and customer satisfaction., Tune-up test sequence differ for each make of test, equipment. Each manufacturer provides a test, sequence to be followed with his equipment, and also, usually supplies specifications. Automotive shop, manuals also give tune-up test sequences. These are, often keyed to one type of test equipment, either, commercial types or a type manufactured especially for, the vehicles manufacturer.
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• Basically, all shop test equipment is a special, application of voltmeters, oscilloscopes,, ohmmeters, tachometers, dwell meters, vacuum, gauges, and exhaust gas analyzers. Individual test, units are packaged in cases and cabinets with, interconnecting switches, shunts, rheostats, and, electronic controls so that many tests can be made, with few engine connections. The maximum, difference in test procedures results from the, various methods adopted to interconnect the basic, test equipments. It is important to follow the, procedures provided with the test equipment being, used to get meaningful results.
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engine tune-up procedure, • To perform a basic , we go through a series of inspections:, • Visually inspect the engine’s fuel-system components looking, to make sure the fuel filter is clean and clog-free, that a, clogged filter hasn’t caused any damage to the fuel pump,, and that the fuel injectors are free of deposits and other, grime., • Visually inspect the spark plugs to gauge their age and wear., • Check spark plug performance to make sure they are, functioning properly., • As needed, replace your vehicle’s points and condenser, if, applicable., • Check and adjust the ignition timing and idle if needed., • Check the engine’s PCV valve., • Check the vehicle’s engine air filter and cabin air filter., • Check oil and coolant levels.
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What Is An Engine Tune Up?, • An engine tune up is a necessary exercise for all car engines, to undergo regularly. It is a way of making a car’s engine work, at the level and standard intended by the car manufacturer, when the car was first made. All manufacturers will stipulate, a schedule of when a car will require an engine tune up to, ensure a car runs at its most efficient., • As cars develop and engineering becomes better and better,, the amount of engine tune ups that cars need are starting to, diminish. In fact, only a handful are really often required in, modern day cars over the average 10 year life span, or just, over 200,000 km. This is obviously down to improved design, and how cars themselves are produced. Given that cars are, largely made by robots and automated computed systems, these days, the room for human error that often caused the, need for more regular engine tune ups has largely been, removed.
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• Plus, we are lucky in our day and age with the marked, improvement in engine oil and other such car accessories that, can help improve the performance of our cars while they are, running. Electronic computer units are another reason for this, as they run operating system upgrades regularly as a matter, of course., • That is not to say however that the need for engine tunes ups, has been completely eradicated. Tune ups are definitely still, needed, but will largely have to do with inspecting and, ensuring that the carburetor is running ok with the correct, balance of air and fuel. Tune ups also look at replacing, if, necessary, parts of the ignition system. These include vital car, parts like spark plugs and a distributor rotor. Air filters will, also most likely be replaced during a routine service and tune, up while emissions will also be checked owing to an increased, awareness in the environment in recent years. Some, mechanics may like to adjust the valve train too
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Why You Need To Do An Engine Tune Up?, • As briefly mentioned above, engine tune ups are imperative to ensure that, all the power and efficiency that your car is capable of is being reached., Mechanics, or well educated DIY amateurs, will start an engine tune up by, visually inspecting all components within an engine and then fitting new, parts as needed. This is when the parts like spark plugs or fuel filters could, be replaced as required in addition to the contact breaker points or the, distributor cap., • One of the best ways to answer the question ‘why do you need to do an, engine tune up’ however is in the results of when a tune up has been, completed. Drivers will immediately notice that their car is running in a, much smoother fashion and is far more efficient in terms of the amount of, fuel the vehicle goes through. Fuel economy often almost pays for an, engine tune up in itself as well as the fact that a tune up restores some, power that is lost over time and usage., • Manufacturers recommend having an engine tune up, not to make car, owners part with more money throughout the lifespan of a car, but actually, to help car owners ensure the longevity of that lifespan and get far more, back in terms of return on investment of the vehicle. Plus sticking to the, servicing schedule can make selling a car that much easier when you have, decided the time is right to part ways
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How Often Should I Have My Car Tuned Up?, • As briefly alluded to earlier in this guide, a car needs, tuning up perhaps every 250,000 km, 160,000 miles or, every 10 years – or simply when your car’s manual, stipulates upon the recommendation of your car’s, manufacturer and maker. This is the best place to, confirm when to have a tune up as engines, and when, they need servicing, really vary a great deal when it, comes to the vehicle and the model as well as how, many miles that car has driven as well as its age., • Bearing that in mind, it sometimes pays to have your, car serviced earlier than recommended in your service, manual as your car, and the demands you have put on, it, may require a tune up. Therefore, there are some, other symptoms or points that can prompt a tune up, that little bit earlier. They are:
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• A decrease in fuel economy and how far a car runs, per gallon of fuel, • If the power seems to be limited in some ways, • Consistently stalling when coming to a stop, • If the car ‘runs on’ after the ignition has been, switched off, • If the engine makes a knocking sound while it is, accelerating, • If your check engine light comes on when the, engine is started
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Engine Tune Up Checklist, • Understanding what an engine tune up is, helps car drivers, realise the costs involved behind having their car regularly, serviced as well as learning why cars need a tune up in the, first place. Here is an engine tune up checklist so that drivers, can run through with their mechanic what they have, completed in a tune up, or it can even be used by well, educated amateur DIY mechanics who are trying to get their, car to run that little bit more smoothly., • Look at the spark plugs and see what state they are in. Things, to look out for are whether they are worn and what the color, of the insulator firing noses are. If the engine is in a good, enough condition it means that the spark plugs will look a, healthy light tan and the insulator firing noses will simply be, gray. If your spark plugs look different, or your insulator firing, noses are any other color, there could be a problem with your, engine.
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• Now it is time to see how the spark plugs actually, perform. To do so, look at what color the plugs create, and whether the spark is lighting the fuel as it should., • Next, look at the spark plug wires. Owners or, mechanics will need to check that these wires are not, hard or cracked in any way as this can affect the spark, plug performance., • Moving on from the spark plugs, check that the fuel, filter does not need changing. If it is dirty in any way, or, clogged up, it is time to replace it., • From the filter, check that the fuel pump is functioning, efficiently., • The fuel injectors then need to be inspected to ensure, that the fuel is not being restricted from reaching the, engine by any dirt or debris.
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• From here, the fuel injector needs to be checked to, ensure that any build up that is occurring is not, stopping the spark plugs igniting. If possible, use a fuel, injector cleaner to help with this., • Check, and adjust if needed, the engine timing and idle., • Inspect the PCV valve and see if it is leaking or bunged, up at all., • Check all the vehicle’s points as well as the condenser., • Check all oil and coolant levels, • Check the engines air filter as well as the cabin air filter, • This may all sound like a lot, but they’re little jobs that, add up to making your car’s engine run so much better, that it really is a worthwhile service for your car. It is, seeing this checklist, however, that may persuade at, home amateur mechanics to have their car, professionally serviced.
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An Engine Tune Up – The Bottom Line, , • Having an engine tune up is just one of those things, that all cars require from time to time so is, necessary for car drivers to be aware of and take on, the chin – even if it costs them some cash. In the, long run, a tune up will actually save drivers money, in terms of fuel efficiency – at the very least. Tune, ups are also good opportunities for drivers and, mechanics to find fault with vehicles before they, turn into big problems that could cost the car, owner far more. So it really does pay to know the, tell tale signs that your car needs a tune up as well, as adhering to your car manufacturer’s, recommended servicing schedule.
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Tools and equipment for repair and overhauling, • 1. Oil Filter Wrench, • As a beginner mechanic, you’ll mostly be assigned to maintenance, work such as tire mounting, inspection and, of course, oil change., This is an unavoidable thing. Every new mechanic has to go, through this period. To be a pro one day, you first have to learn the, basics. That and also because nobody else wants to do it. Anyway,, get used to it. Work hard, learn everything you can and, one day,, you’ll be happy the new guy is doing all the tire work too., • In the meantime, make sure you get yourself a good oil filter, wrench. I personally use 2 or 3 differently sized oil wrenches. They, work better than strap wrenches or plier models but you’ll need to, get a couple of them to fit smaller or bigger oil filters. It all, depends on where you work. Honda and Toyota, for example,, almost use the same filter size for all models but Ford, on the, other hand, uses a wide range of oil filter sizes., • I suggest you buy a medium sized one first. Honda Civic size is, perfect and will fit most cars, which is good enough to start.
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2. Ratchet and Sockets, , • We’ll go through the obvious ones first. You’ll need a ratchet, in, fact, three., • You’ll need a 1/4in, 3/8in, and 1/2in ratchet with matching socket, sets. This is probably the tool you’re going to use most so buy a, good one. I strongly suggest you buy one of those complete, ratchet set. They are always on sale somewhere and you can buy, them for half price. You’ll buy a kit like this only once in your life, and add more stuff to it with time. I am still working with my first, complete set up to this day. I may have bought a lot of 10mm, sockets since then, though., • If you are on a tight budget, just buy the 3/8 ratchet with only the, metric sockets. As for most of the tools on this list, you can always, only buy the metric set since the vast majority of cars you will be, working on in real life will require metric tools., • I always wonder why I bought a standard socket kit. Probably, because it came in the complete set I bought 10 years ago…, • You’ll probably never use it except when your 19mm won’t fit on a, rusty bolt. You’re better using the money for tools you need now, and leave the standard kit purchase for later.
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• 3. Wrench set, , • Pretty obvious too. You’ll need a good wrench set., • Once again, you can buy the metric ones first. If money, is not a problem, buy a set of ratchet wrenches too but, know that these don’t replace the normal ratchet set., Ratchet wrenches are super useful for numerous tasks, but their heads tend to be a bit thicker and won’t fit, everywhere so make sure you buy the normal set first., , • 4. Impact Gun, , • I’ll never say it enough. Buy a quality impact gun from, the start., • And because we now live in the future, buy a cordless, one.
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• You just can’t imagine how free you’ll feel until you get one., 10 years ago, when I started as a beginner auto mechanic, I, bought a standard Ingersoll-Rand gun. Cordless models were, super expensive then and weren’t that powerful compared to, air-powered ones. But not so long ago, after seeing, everybody on Instagram using the Milwaukee cordless model,, I bought one and, wow, what a difference!, • It’s probably the best thing to happen since forced induction!, • Worth mentioning, check out the Milwaukee ONE-KEY impact, gun. They feature 4 customizable torque settings you can set, up using an app on your phone or your computer., • If you want more info on the ONE-KEY function, check out this, excellent review on the Milwaukee ONE-KEY toolset., Best Auto Mechanic Books to Learn by Yourself
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• 5. Screwdrivers:, , • Of course, you’ll also need screwdrivers., • You don’t really have to buy a full set of, screwdrivers since you’ll only use the flat and, Phillips (cross) screwdriver. Sadly, most of the time, it’s cheaper to buy the complete set. This is dumb, but what can you do. I have a full bag of squareheaded screwdrivers at home and I don’t know, what to do with them. Except for the one I ground, and bent to use as a rear brake adjustment tool., • You may want to buy a big flat-headed screwdriver, too. It’s a pretty handy tool when nothing else, works.
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• 6. Pliers, • When it comes to pliers, it’s really difficult to, choose. There are so many different pliers models,, shapes, and lengths. To each is own. But as for the, bare minimum, make sure you get at least a pair of, these 3 pliers: normal, long-nosed, and cutter pliers., • You’ll never have enough different pairs of pliers, but get those three first. You can buy more later on.
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• 7. Vise-Grip:, • I included the Vise-Grip pliers separately because, you absolutely need a pair of these. And don’t take, the fake!, • A good pair of Vise-Grip can save your life one day!, • Seriously, even if you’re on a tight budget, I strongly, suggest you buy at least one pair of Vise-Grip., Especially if you work in a small auto repair shop, and often fix older car models. They often come in a, set of 4 but you don’t need to buy the full kit right, away. Just get the classic one., • These pliers serve as last resorts and will be your, best friend when working on tough nuts and bolts!
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• 8. Funnels:, , • Funnels come in all shapes and sizes but you really, need only two. A small one and a long one. The long, one is for filling transmission fluid. The other one is for, oil changes. Ideally, you’ll want a funnel with an, opening the same size as most common engine oil fill, plugs., • Personally, I used to have a super clever funnel with, different threaded adaptors that would perfectly fit, most car’s oil opening but I drove on it once and now I, just can’t find one anywhere. I now use an empty 1-liter, oil bottle cut in half. It doesn’t look as professional as, my last one but it does the job just fine., • Whether you buy a specific funnel or make your own is, really up to you. You absolutely need to find one you, like to work with, though.
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• 9. Hammer:, , • Once again, this is a tool you need to buy in two different sizes., You need a small one and a big one. The big one is used to remove, drum brakes, ball joints and tie rods or whenever something, doesn’t go as plan and you need a little convincing. The small one, is used for all those other jobs where a hammer is needed but you, don’t want to break things., • Just get two hammers you’re comfortable working with. You’ll use, them a lot so don’t buy cheap ones., • 10. Pry bar, • You’ll also need a small pry bar. Once again, I suggest you buy a, quality one because cheaper models will bend and won’t be of any, use. Don’t buy a full kit if you can’t afford it but instead, buy only, one good multi-use pry bar., • Small pry bars are very versatile and will help you perform, numerous tasks. They are perfect to remove calipers, wheel caps,, drive shafts and drum brakes but also to give you a hand whenever, you need to pry or break something in place.
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• You’ll never realize how much you need a good pry bar until, you have to work without one. Trust me., • You may also need a bigger one for removing ball joints and, control arms but I suggest you wait before you buy it. They, tend to be expensive and you can still borrow one from a coworker in the meantime. Sometimes you’ll have to work, beside a pro mechanic who thinks he knows it all and won’t, lend you their tools and be a bitch about it but most, mechanics will be more than happy to help the new guys out., • I still remember how it was when I started. I didn’t have much, money to buy all the tools I needed and all I had was an, impact gun and a toolbox the size of fishing bait box. Thank, God, I was lucky enough to have a pro mechanic willing to, help me out working in the stall beside me., • Never underestimate the help you can get from more, experienced guys working with you.
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• 11. Door Trim Removal Tool:, , • This tool is not absolutely necessary. I decided to, include it for two reasons: 1- it will help you remove, plastic clips without getting frustrated and 2- it will, prevent you from breaking trims and upholstery which, doesn’t really look good when you start working, somewhere. Trims are super expensive and your boss, will hate you if you break lots of them. I broke my fair, share of trims in my early days, especially in winter, when you work on frozen cars. These things tend to, break like glass…. or frozen plastic., • You can find a good trim removal tool almost, everywhere and they are pretty cheap. Just buy one, and save the hassle of sticking a screwdriver through, your finger and remove clips and trims like a pro from, the start!
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• 12. Pocket Screwdriver:, , • A pocket screwdriver will probably be your most useful, tool. I know I said that already but seriously, buy one. I, don’t know about you but my nail game is not really on, point so my pocket screwdriver is pretty handy. You’ll, use it to remove and install oil seal, trims, and small, parts. It also works as a small prybar, a scrapper, a, centering punch, a marking tool, etc., • Most of the time, you don’t even have to buy one since, most auto part shop and suppliers will give out some, for free. Personally, I seem to be really good at losing, them so last time I went to the part store I just bought, 10 pocket screwdrivers and left them in the top drawer, of my chest. Best idea ever!
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• 13. Big Channellock Pliers:, , • You may not have heard of Channellock pliers before. They are not as, widely known as Vise-Grip pliers but they are definitely as useful, if not, more. You won’t use them as often as your Vise-Grips but you’ll be happy, you have them on tough jobs., • The shape of the teeth really bites into the metal allowing the jaw to grip on, almost everything. They are perfect for more specific jobs or when, everything else failed., • We use two of them: the 12″ Straight Jaw and the 9,5″ Nutbuster., • The Straight Jaw works well to compress front calipers when installing new, brake pads, removing oil filters when you don’t have an oil filter wrench of, the correct size, or grip and remove almost anything covered with rust. I use, them a lot for alignment jobs. They do wonders to hold the tie-rod end, while adjusting the toe. These pliers also work as the go-to tool for every, time you don’t have a tool big enough to do the job. The adjusting jaw is, perfect to hold big stuff while still having a good hand grip., • The Nutbuster, as the name implies, is for busting nuts. The parrot nose is, designed to grip on round surface and it works really well. This is another, last resort tool but you’ll be happy you bought a pair whenever you are, having a tough time with a rounded bolt.
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• 14. Tire Pressure Gauge & Inflator:, , • One of the most common task you’ll have to perform when, beginning as an auto mechanic is maintenance and tire jobs., You’ll have to check and adjust air pressure on cars you are, working on maybe 10 to 20 times a day., • Make sure you buy yourself a good air pressure gauge &, inflator., • They make these in all shapes and forms. Some tools check, pressure and inflate at the same time to speed up the process, while others are digital for a more precise application. Cars, with TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitor System) can be tricky to, inflate correctly and you may trigger the TPMS light if you use, an inappropriately calibrated tool., • Choose one to your liking. Nobody knows what’s best for you, better than yourself. Buy one you are comfortable using as, you’re going to use it a lot.
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• 15. LED Work Light:, , • This one may be optional. Some auto repair shop will provide it for, you. Personally, I like to have my own work light. Most of the time,, when the shop provides it, two things happen. It’s either an, inexpensive, bulky model that won’t fit anywhere or it’s an, expensive one and you’ll have to pay for it if you ever happen to, break or lose it. I say keep that one in your tool chest and buy, another one., • I like to buy a not so expensive brand so it doesn’t bother me too, much when I drive on it with a car. I don’t know why I keep doing, this but it happens on a regular basis. I also like to have one of, those super inexpensive little pocket flashlights you can buy, everywhere. They are perfect for brake inspections and they are, small enough so you can keep one in your pocket. Really handy., • I think it’s better to buy a cheaper one and replace it more often., You are going to let it fall and break it anyway., • And you can find pretty powerful LED work lights online for a really, good price so why bother?
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• 16. Pick Set:, • Pick sets are cheap and useful for various, applications. Either it’s for removing oil cartridge, filters’ seals or door handle locking pins, you’ll find, plenty of use for small picks. They don’t cost a lot of, money so just buy a set.
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• 17. Test Light:, , • Test lights are perfect to quickly inspect for blown fuses and other, simple electric problems like light bulbs not working and starters, diagnosing. I personally really like dual polarity or “smart” test, lights. They let you test for positive and negative at the same time,, eliminating the need to switch the probe from negative to positive, everytime you want to test for ground or 12v. This really gets, annoying when you need to switch back and forth multiple times., Make yourself a favor and just buy a dual polarity test light., • I didn’t include a multimeter here because most beginner auto, mechanics won’t have to perform electrical diagnosis work but if, you do, I strongly suggest you buy a quality one. With today’s, electrical systems being always more complexes and becoming, more electronic than electrical; cheaper, less accurate multimeters, may mislead you during the troubleshooting process. Don’t let, that happen. Nothing is more frustrating than having a come-back, due to a wrong diagnosis because of cheap equipment., • Some tools can be bought for cheap, others just can’t.
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• 18. Automatic Wire Stripper:, • If you happen to do electrical work, this one is a, must-have. An automatic wire stripper will save you, time and work while keeping your fingers safe from, razor blades. These strippers are self-adjusting to, quickly remove insulation from wires and will work, on almost every wire sizes., • I don’t even know why they keep selling the older, models where you had to select the correct wire, size. And they are almost the same price. Just buy, an automatic one.
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• 19. Socket Extension Bar:, , • If you bought a complete ratchet and socket set, you, may have one or two extension bars already included., Make sure you have a couple of them and if not buy, them separately., • You’ll need a short one, a medium one, and a long one., Maybe two long ones so you can mix them up with the, shorter ones for really hard to reach bolts., • Worth mentioning, if you have to buy extension bars, separately, check out those “wobble” extension bars., They allow the socket to pivot for difficult to access, work areas. I don’t really like them but I know some, mechanics who just can’t live without them. Try them, and see for yourself.
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• 20. Extensible Magnet:, , • This tool could save your life one day. It’s all fun and games, until you drop a socket or a bolt into something it’s, impossible for you to reach into and really can’t just leave it, there. I once dropped a bolt in a spark plug hole when the, spark plug was removed, indeed. There’s no way I could’ve, got that bolt out of the cylinder with a pair of long-nosed, pliers. My boss would have killed me if I had to tell him I now, needed to remove the engine head for the price of a spark, plug replacement., • My extensible magnet was worth every penny that day!, • And the day I dropped a socket in a catalytic converter while, removing an exhaust manifold. And that other day I dropped, it in the radiator fan. Get it? Just get yourself one!, • I use the exact same model as the one displayed above. It, works just fine. You really don’t need to buy something any, more expensive than that.
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• 21. Die Grinder:, , • You will need, at least, one good die grinder. If you can afford it, I suggest, you buy two: one 90 degrees die grinder like the one pictured above and a, straight die grinder., • You’ll use the straight one equipped with a metal brush for brake system, maintenance and exhaust work but you can also use it with a small cutting, disc for various cutting purposes., • On the other hand, you’ll use the right angle die grinder to clean rims and, wheels, valve covers and wheels hubs., • You can easily work with only one of them and switch from brush to cutting, disc back and forth but you’ll quickly realize that, on some jobs, the straight, one just won’t work. And they are pretty inexpensive compared to other air, tools so treat yourself for once!, • On a budget? You can always buy cheaper brands. They will do the job just, fine until you’re able to buy your dream grinder. Be aware that on some, cheaper models the trigger may not be as sensitive, though, which can be a, bummer sometimes. Just so you know., • My best advice is to find a more experienced mechanic and learn by, working beside him. There’s a lot you can learn by watching a pro do his, thing. And if you’re lucky enough, you’ll be able to borrow the tools you still, haven’t bought yet. Don’t worry if your tool chest still feels empty, 10 years, later, I still buy tools on a regular basis and there’s always more tools I need.
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Pollution due to vehicle emissions, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, , Vehicle emissions control is the study and, practice of reducing the motor vehicle, emissions -- emissions produced by motor, vehicles, especially internal combustion, engines., • Emissions of many air pollutants have been, shown to have variety of negative effects on, public health and the natural environment., Emissions that are principal pollutants of, concern include:
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•, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, , The Combustion Process, • Gasoline and diesel fuels are mixtures of, hydrocarbons, compounds which contain, hydrogen and carbon atoms. In a "perfect", engine, oxygen in the air would convert all the, hydrogen in the fuel to water and all the, carbon in the fuel to carbon dioxide. Nitrogen, in the air would remain unaffected. In reality,, the combustion process cannot be "perfect,", and automotive engines emit several types of, pollutants.
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•, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, , • "Perfect" Combustion:, • FUEL (hydrocarbons) + AIR (oxygen and, nitrogen) ==>> CARBON DIOXIDE + water, + unaffected nitrogen, • Typical Engine Combustion:, • FUEL + AIR ==>> UNBURNED, HYDROCARBONS + NITROGEN OXIDES, + CARBON MONOXIDE + CARBON, DIOXIDE + water
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Typical Emissions from a Car
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• • Exhaust Pollutants, , • • HYDROCARBONS:, , • Hydrocarbon emissions result when fuel molecules, in the engine do not burn or burn only partially., • • Hydrocarbons react in the presence of nitrogen, • oxides and sunlight to form ground-level ozone, a, • major component of smog. Ozone irritates the eyes,, • damages the lungs, and aggravates respiratory, • problems. It is our most widespread and intractable, • urban air pollution problem. A number of exhaust, • hydrocarbons are also toxic, with the potential to, • cause cancer.
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• • NITROGEN OXIDES (NOx):, • Under the high pressure and temperature, , conditions in an engine, nitrogen and oxygen, atoms in the air react to form various nitrogen, oxides, collectively known as NOx. Nitrogen, oxides, like hydrocarbons, are precursors to, the formation of ozone. They also contribute, to the formation of acid rain.
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• • CARBON MONOXIDE (CO):, • Carbon monoxide is a product of incomplete, combustion and occurs when carbon in the fuel is, partially oxidized rather than fully oxidized to, carbon dioxide (CO2). Carbon monoxide reduces, the flow of oxygen in the bloodstream and is, particularly dangerous to persons with heart, disease.
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• • CARBON DIOXIDE (CO2):, • In recent years, the EPA has started to view carbon, dioxide, a product of "perfect" combustion, as a, pollution concern. Carbon dioxide does not directly, impair human health, but it is a "greenhouse gas", that traps the earth's heat and contributes to the, potential for global warming.
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• • Particulate matter –, • Soot or smoke made up of particles in the, micrometre size range: Particulate matter causes, negative health effects, including but not limited to, respiratory disease., , • • Sulphur oxide (SOx) –, • A general term for oxides of sulphur, which are, emitted from motor vehicles burning fuel, containing a high concentration of sulphur.
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Control techniques, • 1. AIR TO FUEL RATIO:, •, •, •, •, •, •, , • A/F ratio is important engine variable to, control auto exhausts., • Leaner mixture reduces HC and CO but, increases NOx, • Richer mixture increases HC but reduces, NOx
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• Catalytic converter:, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, , • The catalytic converter is a device placed in, the exhaust pipe, which converts, hydrocarbons, carbon monoxide, and NOx, into less harmful gases by using a, combination of platinum, palladium and, rhodium as catalysts., • Reduces emissions., • Increases fuel efficiency.
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• 3. PUC i.e. Emission Testing:, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, , • Pollution Under Control (PUC), -Under Rule 115 (7) of Central Motor Vehicle Rules, (CMVR), 1989, motor vehicles are required to carry, PUC Certificate to be given by an agency, authorised for this purpose by State Govt., • Measurement of emissions from petrol vehicle is, done by gas analyzer and in case of diesel vehicle, emission are measured by smoke meters. There is, a list of approved vendors and models of PUC, equipment which is compiled and circulated by, ARAI, Pune.
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• •PUC:, •, •, •, •, , -To ensure that the in-use vehicles are maintained, well and less emitting, •Gasoline vehicles are tested for Idle CO emission, •Diesel vehicles are tested for Free acceleration, smoke
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• 4. Cleaner fuels:, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, , • The fuels used these days in cars has, many compounds, which can cause, impurities. You will have to keep your car, clean and try to remove all the sulphur, from the fuel. You must use fuels like, ethanol, methanol and hydrogen, because, all these fuels have a clean burning. These, fuels have low carbon content as, compared to gasoline and diesel. Use, unleaded fuels
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• 5. Reduce Driving:, , •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, , • Many of us are still dependent on the fossil fuels, and the numbers of cars that are on the road are, increasing everyday. If you take some measures to, drive less, then it can help in curbing the vehicular, pollution and protect some of our natural, resources., • You can maintain your vehicle in a proper manner,, so that there is no harmful emission coming from, your car. Drive as little as possible, use the public, transport or you can walk towards your destination, if it is close by.
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• 6. Maintenance Tips for Vehicles:, , • 1. Drive moderately; avoid speeding your vehicle and, stopping frequently, because this will help in reducing the fuel, use and pollutant emission., • 2. Follow simple vehicle maintenance, like regular oil changes,, spark plug-replacement and air filter changes. This will, increase the life of your vehicle and will improve the fuel, economy as well., • 3. When you start your vehicle, the engine of the car tends to, burn more fuel. However, if you leave your engine idle for, more than two minutes, then it burns more fuel than what is, required when you start the engine., • Switch off engine at signals if period is more than 1.5 mins., • 4. During the summer seasons, park your car in a shaded and, cooler area, this will minimize the evaporation of the fuel.
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• 7. Use of Electric cars:, •, •, •, •, , • Use of Zero emission, vehicles such as ‘hybrid, cars’ or ‘electric, cars’(Battery operated)
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• 8. Awareness and legislation:, •, •, •, •, •, , • Creating awareness in public will help in, reducing air pollution problem., • At the same time strict legislative, measure to curb excessive emissions can, also be adopted.
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•, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, , What are the steps taken to control, vehicular pollution? By CPCB, • The following steps are taken:, • Establishment of Ambient Air Quality, Monitoring throughout India, • Notification of Ambient Air Quality, Standards under Environment (Protection), Act.
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•, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, , • Notification of vehicular emission norms for year, 1990-91,1996, 1998, 2000, 2001, • Improving fuel quality by phasing out lead from, gasoline, reducing diesel sulphur, reducing, gasoline benzene, and etc., • Introduction of alternate fuelled vehicles like, CNG/LPG., • Improvement of public transport system., • Phasing out of grossly polluting commercial, vehicles., • Public awareness & campaigns.
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Air Pollution Act, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, , • In the Constitution of India it is clearly, stated that it is the duty of the state to, ‘protect and improve the environment, and to safeguard the forests and, wildlife of the country’., • It imposes a duty on every citizen ‘to, protect and improve the natural, environment including forests, lakes,, rivers, and wildlife’.
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• What are the laws enforced by of the, • Pollution Control Boards ? • The Central and State, Pollution Control Boards were set up for, • enforcement of the Water (Prevention & Control of, Pollution) Act,, • 1974. Over the years, the Boards have been, assigned additional, • responsibilities which include the following :, • • Water (Prevention & Control of Pollution) Cess, Act, 1977.
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• • Air (Prevention & Control of Pollution) Act, 1981, • • Environment (Protection) Act, 1986 and Rules made, thereunder, • • Hazardous Waste (Management & Handling), Rules1989., • • Manufacture, storage and Import of Hazardous, Chemicals Rules, 1989, • • Bio-medical Waste (Management & Handling) Rules,, 1998, • • Municipal Solid Waste (Management & Handling), Rules, 2000., • • Plastics wastes Rules, 1999 o Coastal Regulation Zone, Rules, 1991, • • Public Liability Insurance Act, 1991
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•, •, •, •, •, •, •, , Background, • Water act was introduced in 1974., • Under above act aspects of air pollution, were not covered., • Therefore The Air (Prevention and, control) pollution act, 1981 was, introduced.
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•, •, •, •, •, •, •, , Definitions, • Air pollution means any solid, liquid or, gaseous substance present in the atmosphere in, such concentration as may be or tend to be, injurious to human beings or living, organisms/creatures or plants or property or, environment
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•, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, , •, •, , Constitution of boards, • A state board under the act consists of following, 17 members – all nominated by the state, government, 1. A full time or part time chairman, 2. Five official members to represent the, government, 3. Five persons representing the local authority, 4. Three non official members from NGOs, 5. Two persons representing, companies/corporations, owned or managed by the state government, 6. A full time member secretary
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•, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, , • Functions of Central Pollution Control, Board :, • Advise the Central Government on matters relating to, pollution;, • Coordinate the activities of the State Boards;, • Provide Technical assistance to the State Boards, carry out, and sponsor investigations and research relating to control, of pollution;, • Plan and organize training of personnel;, • Collect, compile and publish technical and statistical data,, prepare manuals and code of conduct., • To lay down standards;, • To plan nation wide programme for pollution control.
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• • Functions of the State Pollution, • Control Boards:, • • To advise the State Government on matter, relating, • to pollution and on siting of industries, • • To plan programme for pollution control;, • • To collect and disseminate information;, • • To carry our inspection;, • • To lay down effluent and emission standards;, • • To issue consent to industries and other activities, for, • compliance of prescribed emission and effluent, • standards,
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•, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, , Penalties and procedures, • A person found guilty under this act may get, imprisonment not less than 1.5 yrs but which, may be extended up to 6 yrs and additional, fine up to Rs. 5000/- for every day during, which failure continues., • If offence is committed by a company then, person responsible for conduct of company, will be held responsible and held guilty
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• Programs and Activities, • • Air Quality and Emissions Limitations, • • This section of the act declares that protecting, and enhancing the, • nation's air quality promotes public health, • • The law encourages prevention of regional air, pollution and control, • programs, • • It also provides technical and financial assistance, for air pollution, • prevention at both state and local governments
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•, •, •, •, •, •, •, •, , • Clean Fuel Vehicles, • The Clean Fuel Vehicle programs focused on, alternative fuel use and petroleum fuels that met, low emission vehicle (LEV) levels, • Compressed natural gas, ethanol, methanol,, liquefied petroleum gas and electricity are examples, of cleaner alternative fuel, • Programs such as the California Clean Fuels, Program, • and pilot program are increasing demand that for, • new fuels to be developed to reduce harmful, • emissions
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•, •, •, •, •, •, •, , Example: England 1863, Leblanc factory for soda ash (Na2CO3), Large amounts of byproduct (HCl) were emitted, as vapor, HCl devastated the vegetation = problems with, the industry, Alkali-inspectors found the best technique to, reduce emissions at, the factory level, The technique was enforced on all other factories, emitting HCl
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Thank You, ?
