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FABRIC STRUCTURE, , WELT AND PIQUE, of, and one, waand pique structure consists of a plain face fabric composed ofone series warp called plain warp, , series pf wet threads and a series of back/stitching warp threads. The sttching ends are placed on a separate beam, /, which is, , heavily weighted, whereas, , stitching warp is 2: 1. At, , plain ends are kept at moderate tension. The ratio beween plain warp and, tight stitching ends are interwoven into (raised over) the plain face texture. When, , the face, , intervals the, , the stitching ends are raised over the plain face fabric, the stitching ends puli the plain fabric down due to its heavy, tension and an indentaton is fomed on the surface., , ORDINARY WELT STRUCTURE-LOOSEBACK WITHOUTWADDING, The tem WELT is, , applied, , to the, , pique structúre when the indentations fom, , Continuous horizontal lines., , Ordinary Welt designs are constructed in the following way., Warp ratio = Plain ends: Sütching ends 2:1.(Plain: Stitching Plain ). The stitching ends are raised over 2, , picks or 6 picks or 8 picks or 10 picks as per the width of the, 1. Allthe picksinterlaces with plain ends in plain order. (0), , picks after the interval of, 2., , 4, , indentation, , required., , All the stitching ends floai dowi. for the required numbe. of picks and raised up for fwo picks (), Slack face fabric, (due to slack plain warp), , Indentation- Cloth pulied down, , (due to tight stitching ends), Horizontal cord effect, , PSP, , P, , SP, , Stitching ends are raised after 4 piks, 6X6 (3X6-2REPEATS), , 8, , 0, , 0, , 0, , 0, 0, , 0, , 4, , 3, 2, , P, , 0, , SPPSP, , 0, , Stitching ends are rised, after 6 piks, 6X8, , Stitching ends are raised, after 8 piks, , STITCHING END, , 6X 10, , Stitching, , ends, , are, , raised, , after 4 picks and 6 picks, alternately 6 X 14

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2, FABRIC STRUCTURE, , WADDED WELT STRUCTURE -LOcSE BACK WITH, In, beween, , this, , plain, , WADDING, , introduced in, the centre withou, , of plain slack face fabric. wadding picks, structure, in order to increase the prominence, The wadding picks simply lie in, loose face fabric and tight back.stitching..ends., Hence it is called, , as, , are, , "loose back wadding"., , interweavingwith sttching ends., in, Loose Wadded welt structures are constructed the following way., , or fwo, ordinary welt structure., 2. indicate the wadding picks in between the plain picks in one, 3., be double picks as per the shutle box motion used. Since the |, places. The wadding picks may be single pick or it can, the plain ends are raised., beBween the plain ends and stitching ends, on all wadding picks, all, in, fo, be, are, picks, wadding, , 1. First construct, , 3, , 2, , |07|0:1, 0, , 0, , POSITION OF, WADDING PICKS, , WADDING, 0, , 6 X6, , 6X8 (6+ 2), , 70T7O, , 0, , 0, , 0, , 0, , POSITION OF, WADDING PICKS, , 0, , 0, 0, , X, , 0, , 0, , POSITION OF, WADDING PICKS, , 6X8, , O, , 70, 0, , 0, , 0, WADDING IN TWO PLACES 6 X 12 (8 + 4), , IN

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3, , FABRIC STRUCTURE, , 07 07, , 07, 0, , 0, , 0, , 0, , 0, 0, , 0, , 0, , 0, 6x 12 (10+2), , 6x 10, , WADDEDTheWELT, STRUTURE-FAST BACK WITHWADDING, tem fast back is applied to cloths in which the wadding picks of wadded welt stuciureinterlaces in piain, order with stitcl ing ends which are floating at the bottom of the face plain cloth. (In the loose wadded welts,the wadding, picks simply lie in the centre without interweaving with sitching ends). The interweavirng of wadding picks with sütching, , ends controlls t ie long float of stitching ends at the back side and hence it is called "Fast Back", Fast wadded welt structures are constructed in the following way., , 1. First construct ioose wadded welt structure. 2. Gve plain weave mark with the stitching ends and wadding, picks., , Sometimes out of two wadding picksin one set, one pick is interlaced with sttching ends in plain order and, another pick is let as loose wadding pick. In the same manner, next set ofwadding picks are interlaced by giving opposite, plain, , interlacement. This is referred, , ", , as, , Altemate loose and fast wadded welt, , 7, 0, , 0, , |7, , O, 0, , 0, , 0, , X, LOOSE WADDED, , FAST WADDED, , LOOSE WADDED, , ALTERNATE LOOSE&, FAST WADDED WELT

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4, , ABRIC STRUCTURE, , PIQUES, The fabric in which the indentationformed are-herizental is called WELTfabrics, , in PIQUE fabric, the indentation formed are not horizontal but it is in some figuratlive effect due to r ising of, titching ends over the plain fabric in figurative order resulüng figurative bulging., H the sttching ends ends are raised in altemate plain groups, t results in waved bulging of plain faisric which is, , alled as WAVED PIQUE., In waved pique, the first group of marks do not overlap with the second group horizontally. Each group starts ater, , |e completion of first group., , x, , PLACE FOR, WADDING PICKS, , X, , TOTAL STITCHING ENDS = 8, , x, , TOTAL PLAIN ENDS = 8 X2= 1¬, , TOTAL ENDS, , PLACE FOR, X, , TOTAL PLAIN PICKS = 10 X2= 20, , WADDING PICKS, , xX, , TOTAL WADDING PICKS = 4, , X, , X, , 16 +8= 24, , TOTAL PICKS 20 + 4 24, 2 PLAIN PICKS, , NTERLACEMENT OF STITCHING ENDS, IN 8X 10, , |X, , X, , x, , x, , -, , X, K, , X, X, , X, , X, , X, , x, , --, , X, , X, VTERLACEMENT OF STITCHING ENDS, , N 10X 12, , INTERLACEMENT OF STITCHING ENDS, iN 12X 10, , *, , *, , *, , *

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FABRIC STRUCTURE, , W, 0, , X0, 0 X i0, , 0, , 0 X, , 0, , 0, , 0, 0, , 0., , X O, , 0, , W, , W, , C, , 0, , 0X 0, , 0, , 0, , o, , o, , X, , 0, , 0, , X, , 0, , 0, 0, 0, , 0, , 0, , P SP PSP P SP P.S P P S P P s PP.s PP s P