Page 1 :
BRIDLE JOINTS, These joints are used when a light frame is needed and strength is not the main, requirement. For example, a picture frame. One part of the joint fits into the other part, and is glued permanently in position. The angled bridle joint can be used a a substitute, for a mortise and tenon joint, again if strength is not important., , PLAIN BRIDLE JOINT, , ANGLED BRIDLE JOINT, , Using this would joint would create a, ‘T’ shape with two pieces of wood., , Using this would joint would create an, ‘L’ shape with two pieces of wood., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 2 :
BUTT JOINTS, These joints are the most straightforward of all of the wood joints simply because they, require no cutting out. All you need to do is ensure both ends are square and bring them, up to each other at right angles as shown below and nail (and glue) the faces together., Notice that the nails have been, driven in at an angle in a process, BUTT JOINT, called Dovetail Nailing. This is to, give both parts more of a grip and, help prevent the pieces from being, pulled apart too easily., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 3 :
click here, , CORNER REBATE JOINTS, The shoulder or lapped joint is very common and is used for furniture and box, constructions such as jewellery boxes. The joint below is a simple lapped joint. The, shoulder can be seen clearly, this is usually planed using a rebate/shoulder plane or, combination plane. This type of joint is often seen as a corner joint., , for main menu, click here for, , CORNER REBATE JOINT, more wood joints, Here is a shoulder plane taking the rebate out with, the help of a piece of scrap wood clamped in place., There are a few other ways of creating a rebate., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 4 :
click here, , CROSS HALVING JOINTS, for main menu, Cross halving joints are probably the most simple of joints to mark out and cut. They are, used whenever it is necessary to join two pieces of wood that cross over each other., Sometimes these joints can be seen on the strengthening rails of tables and chairs., , click here for, , CROSS HALVING JOINT, more wood joints, , Using this would joint would create a, ‘+’ or a ‘X’ shape with two pieces of, wood., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 5 :
click here, , DOVETAIL JOINT, The ‘DOVETAIL JOINT’ is very strong because of the way the ‘tails’ and ‘pins’ are shaped., This makes it difficult to pull the joint apart and virtually impossible when glue is added. This, type of joint is used in box constructions such as drawers, jewellery boxes, cabinets and other, pieces of furniture where strength is required. It is a difficult joint which requires practice. There, are different types of dovetail joint and when cut accurately they can be very impressive., , for main menu, click here for, , DOVETAIL JOINT, more wood joints, , The box shown here is, particularly strong due to, the dovetail joints at its’, sides., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 6 :
click here, , DOWEL JOINTS, for main menu, Here is another way to create a joint in wood. It is a permanent method but it is not the, strongest joint as the parts can eventually pull apart, especially as the joint becomes old., Modern glues that are very strong have meant that this joint is often used to quickly fix, parts together., , click here for, , DOWEL JOINT, more wood joints, , Some other dowelled, joints in use., Obviously when using this jointing method, you, have to make sure the distance between the holes is, exactly the same as the distance between the dowels., , These dowel pins can be used to, mark the wood to help ensure the, distance between the holes is a, good match., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 7 :
click here, , FINGER JOINT, for main menu, This a good example of a ‘finger’ or ‘comb’ joint. It is ideal for box construction and is, suitable for use with natural woods such as pine and mahogany or even manufactured, boards such as plywood and MDF. The joint is strong especially when used with a good, quality glue such as PVA (woodworkers adhesive) or cascamite., , click here for, , FINGER JOINT, more wood joints, , The number of fingers on each end will, vary depending on the size of the box, being made., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 8 :
click here, , FINGER JOINT, A Finger Joint (sometimes called a comb, joint), is created by accurately cutting out a, series of steps on the ends of two pieces of, wood. Alternate sections are then removed so, that the two pieces fit together as shown here., , for main menu, click here for, , more wood joints, The number of fingers and the size of the fingers can vary greatly in any joint. The following, slides will take you through the steps required to construct a simple, basic finger joint., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 9 :
click here, , MARKING OUT A FINGER JOINT – on the first piece of wood, 1. The two sides to be jointed are arranged as shown in the diagram. A pencil is used to, mark the thickness of the material., , for main menu, , 2. A marking knife and a tri square are used to mark all the way round the, material. It is possible to use only a pencil but a marking knife is more, precise and it has the advantage of cutting the wood fibres. This means when, a saw is used to cut the joint the surface of the wood is less likely to split., , click here for, , 3. The fingers of the first joint are marked out using a pencil and a tri, square/steel rule. The traditional way of marking the fingers involves, the use of a marking gauge. Using a marking gauge to mark the, fingers is difficult especially if you have not used this type of tool, before. The waste wood should be shaded with a pencil. This will, help you avoid cutting away the wrong part of the joint., 4. The wood is placed in a vice. It must be vertical so that the tenon saw is always, cutting down in a straight line. Avoid putting the wood in the vice at an angle as, it will be virtually impossible to use the saw accurately. When cutting, it is, important to cut on the waste wood side of the line. It should still be possible to, see the marking out lines after the saw has been used., 5. The wood is then turned sideways in a vice and the, waste material is finally removed using a tenon saw., , 6. If the joint is slightly inaccurate a firmer or bevel edged chisel can be used, to correct it. A G cramp is used to hold the wood firmly. Scrap wood is placed, underneath to protect the surface of the bench from the chisel. The first side, of the joint should now be complete., , more wood joints, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 10 :
MARKING OUT A FINGER JOINT – on the second piece of wood, , click here, , 7. The first side is placed above the second side of the joint and the, joint is marked out. Again a pencil is used although the traditional, tool would be a marking knife., , for main menu, 8. Marking out the joint when both pieces are together can be difficult, but a steel rule or a tri square can be used to straighten any lines., Again, the waste wood must be clearly identified., , click here for, , 9. The tenon saw is used to cut down the lines marking the middle, section of the joint. The wood must be secured in the vice in the same, way as before. Remember, the saw is used to cut straight down the, joint, on the waste side of the pencil line., , more wood joints, 10. A coping saw is used to, remove the waste wood. Again, the wood is secured in the vice., 11. If the joint is slightly inaccurate a firmer or bevel edged chisel can be used, to correct it. A G cramp is used to hold the wood firmly. Scrap wood is placed, underneath to protect the surface of the bench from the chisel. The second, side of the joint should now be complete., 12. The joint should fit together, accurately. If the stages outlined above, have been carried out carefully., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 11 :
click here, , FINGER JOINT, finished, , for main menu, click here for, , more wood joints, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 12 :
click here, , FINGER JOINT, for main menu, This a good example of a ‘finger’ or ‘comb’ joint. It is ideal for box construction and is, suitable for use with natural woods such as pine and mahogany or even manufactured, boards such as plywood and MDF. The joint is strong especially when used with a good, quality glue such as PVA (woodworkers adhesive) or cascamite., , click here for, , FINGER JOINT, more wood joints, , The number of fingers on each end will, vary depending on the size of the box, being made., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 13 :
click here, , FINGER JOINT, A Finger Joint (sometimes called a comb, joint), is created by accurately cutting out a, series of steps on the ends of two pieces of, wood. Alternate sections are then removed so, that the two pieces fit together as shown here., , for main menu, click here for, , more wood joints, The number of fingers and the size of the fingers can vary greatly in any joint. The following, slides will take you through the steps required to construct a simple, basic finger joint., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 14 :
click here, , MARKING OUT A FINGER JOINT – on the first piece of wood, 1. The two sides to be jointed are arranged as shown in the diagram. A pencil is used to, mark the thickness of the material., , for main menu, , 2. A marking knife and a tri square are used to mark all the way round the, material. It is possible to use only a pencil but a marking knife is more, precise and it has the advantage of cutting the wood fibres. This means when, a saw is used to cut the joint the surface of the wood is less likely to split., , click here for, , 3. The fingers of the first joint are marked out using a pencil and a tri, square/steel rule. The traditional way of marking the fingers involves, the use of a marking gauge. Using a marking gauge to mark the, fingers is difficult especially if you have not used this type of tool, before. The waste wood should be shaded with a pencil. This will, help you avoid cutting away the wrong part of the joint., 4. The wood is placed in a vice. It must be vertical so that the tenon saw is always, cutting down in a straight line. Avoid putting the wood in the vice at an angle as, it will be virtually impossible to use the saw accurately. When cutting, it is, important to cut on the waste wood side of the line. It should still be possible to, see the marking out lines after the saw has been used., 5. The wood is then turned sideways in a vice and the, waste material is finally removed using a tenon saw., , 6. If the joint is slightly inaccurate a firmer or bevel edged chisel can be used, to correct it. A G cramp is used to hold the wood firmly. Scrap wood is placed, underneath to protect the surface of the bench from the chisel. The first side, of the joint should now be complete., , more wood joints, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 15 :
MARKING OUT A FINGER JOINT – on the second piece of wood, , click here, , 7. The first side is placed above the second side of the joint and the, joint is marked out. Again a pencil is used although the traditional, tool would be a marking knife., , for main menu, 8. Marking out the joint when both pieces are together can be difficult, but a steel rule or a tri square can be used to straighten any lines., Again, the waste wood must be clearly identified., , click here for, , 9. The tenon saw is used to cut down the lines marking the middle, section of the joint. The wood must be secured in the vice in the same, way as before. Remember, the saw is used to cut straight down the, joint, on the waste side of the pencil line., , more wood joints, 10. A coping saw is used to, remove the waste wood. Again, the wood is secured in the vice., 11. If the joint is slightly inaccurate a firmer or bevel edged chisel can be used, to correct it. A G cramp is used to hold the wood firmly. Scrap wood is placed, underneath to protect the surface of the bench from the chisel. The second, side of the joint should now be complete., 12. The joint should fit together, accurately. If the stages outlined above, have been carried out carefully., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 16 :
click here, , FINGER JOINT, finished, , for main menu, click here for, , more wood joints, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 17 :
click here, , HOUSING JOINT, , HOUSING JOINT, Housing Joints are most commonly used when a shelf, is being fitted within a model. A groove is cut out of, the side pieces at a certain height, wide enough for, the shelf material to fit into. The shelf can then be, glued and/or nailed in place., A neater finish can be achieved by using a Stopped, Housing Joint, as shown. You could imagine that this, joint would be slightly trickier to cut out neatly, although the joint will look better from the front of, the model., , STOPPED HOUSING JOINT, , for main menu, click here for, , more wood joints, , Notice how the photo on the left of the Housing Joint shows, the cut out in the end piece but the photo on the right shows a, neater finish because a Stopped Housing was used., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 18 :
KNOCK DOWN FITTINGS, Knock-down fittings are those that can be put together easily, normally using only a screw driver, a drill, a, mallet/hammer and other basic tools. They are temporary joints although many are used to permanently join, together items such as cabinets and other pieces of furniture that are purchased in a flat pack., , PLASTIC CORNER BLOCK (FIXIT BLOCKS), , The corner block is pressed against the two pieces of material (normally wood based)., Screws are used to fix the block into position. This type of joint is used to fit modern, cabinets such as those found in a kitchen. It is a relatively strong joint although it has the, advantage that it can be dismantled using a screwdriver., , click here, , NATURAL WOOD FITTING (SQUARE SECTION BATTEN), , A piece of material such as pine can be drilled and screws can be passed through these, holes. This gives a cheap and effective knock-down joint. The screws are normally, countersunk into the knock-down fitting., , TWO BLOCK FITTING (LOK-JOINTS), , These are made from plastic. A bolt passes through the, first fitting into the thread of the second. As the bolt is, tightened it draws the two fittings together. The pins help, keep the fitting straight. This gives a very strong joint and, it can be dismantled using a screwdriver., , RIGID JOINT, , These are normally moulded in plastic which makes them strong. Screws pass, through the four holes which hold the sides at each corner firmly together., , for main menu, click here for, , more wood joints, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 19 :
click here, , MITRE JOINTS, , for main menu, , A Mitre Joint is used where two pieces of wood need to be positioned next to each other, at exactly 90o. A 45o cut is made on either end and when they are placed against each, other, a 90o corner is achieved., , click here for, , MITRE JOINT, more wood joints, , The most common use for Mitre Joints is in, the construction of wooden picture frames., They are often made up of four pieces of, wood with Mitres cut on both ends of each., Using this would joint would create an ‘L’, shape with two pieces of wood., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 20 :
click here, , MORTISE AND TENON JOINT, for main menu, click here for, , more wood joints, , For a detailed description of how a Mortise, and Tenon joint is marked out and cut . . ., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 21 :
click here, , MORTISE & TENON JOINT, An animation of a Mortise and Tenon joint, is shown opposite. This type of joint has a, wide range of uses and is particularly, useful when manufacturing furniture. The, marking out and cutting of Mortise and, Tenon joints are described in this, presentation., , INTRODUCING THE MORTISE GAUGE, , for main menu, click here for, , more wood joints, The mortise gauge is a special type of marking, gauge. It is used to mark wood so that a mortise, can be cut into it. It is crucial that it is set to the, correct size of mortise chisel. The mortise chisel, is then used to remove the waste wood., The mortise gauge is normally made from a, hardwood such as Rosewood with Brass being, used for the parts that slide along the stem., , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 22 :
click here, , SETTING THE MORTISE GAUGE, , for main menu, , 1. The distance between the fixed spur, and the adjustable spur is set so that it, matches the width of the mortise chisel., The width of the mortise chisel should, match the width of the mortise to be cut, in the wood., , click here for, , more wood joints, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 23 :
click here, , MARKING OUT THE MORTISE, , for main menu, , 2. A TRI SQUARE and a marking knife, are used to mark the lines at the ends of, the mortise., , click here for, , TRI SQUARE, , more wood joints, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 24 :
click here, , MARKING OUT THE MORTISE – cont., , for main menu, , 3. The stock of the mortise gauge is pressed against the, side of the wood. It is then pushed along the wood until the, mortise is marked out correctly., , click here for, , more wood joints, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 25 :
click here, , CUTTING OUT THE MORTISE – cont., , for main menu, , 4. The Mortise Chisel is then used to break the surface of the waste wood by gently, tapping the handle with a Mallet., , click here for, , 5. The waste wood is then slowly removed, this time, by applying more force to the, handle of the Chisel with the Mallet. The waste is removed until the entire Mortise hole, has been cut to the correct depth., , more wood joints, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 26 :
click here, , MARKING OUT THE TENON, The Tenon part of a Mortise and Tenon joint is marked out, and cut with the same tools as are used for the Mortise part, of the joint., , for main menu, click here for, , Here is how it is done …, , more wood joints, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 27 :
click here, , MARKING OUT THE TENON cont., The width of the Tenon is marked all the way round the, wood. Normally a marking knife is used to produce a, precise line, with the aid of a TRI SQUARE. A pencil can, then be used make the line stand out., , for main menu, click here for, , more wood joints, TRI SQUARE, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 28 :
click here, , SETTING THE MORTISE GAUGE - again, The MORTISE GAUGE is now used to mark out the width, of the tenon. It should be the same width as the mortise, which has just been cut into the wood. The fixed spur and, the adjustable spur of the gauge are set to the width of the, mortise chisel., , The MORTISE GAUGE is used to mark, the size of the Tenon. The stock of the, marking gauge must be held firmly against, the side of the wood as it will have a, tendency to follow the grain of the wood, rather than a straight line., , for main menu, click here for, , more wood joints, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 29 :
click here, , CUTTING THE TENON, A TENON SAW is used to saw down the gauged lines of, the Tenon. The wood is normally held firmly in a, woodworkers VICE. When sawing, take time to check that, the saw is cutting straight down and that it is on the waste, wood side of the Tenon., , for main menu, click here for, , more wood joints, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 30 :
click here, , CUTTING THE TENON – cont., The wood is then supported by a Bench Hook and a, TENON SAW is used to finally remove the waste wood., This leaves the shoulder of the joint., , for main menu, click here for, , more wood joints, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 31 :
click here, , CUTTING THE TENON – cont., A FIRMER CHISEL or BEVEL EDGED CHISEL can be, used to remove rough edges and to straighten the Tenon., The wood must always be held in a woodworking VICE as, a chisel my slip if the wood moves. If the marking out and, cutting have been carried out accurately the Mortise and, Tenon should fit together forming a firm joint., , for main menu, click here for, , more wood joints, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 32 :
click here, , MORTISE & TENON JOINT, finished, , for main menu, click here for, , more wood joints, , design & technology @ boclair academy

Page 33 :
click here, , WOOD JOINTS, BUTT JOINT, DOWEL JOINT, FINGER JOINT, MORTISE & TENON JOINT, DOVETAIL JOINT, CORNER REBATE, CROSS HALVING JOINT, BRIDLE JOINT, MITRE JOINT, HOUSING JOINT, KNOCK DOWN FITTINGS, , for main menu, There are a wide range of wood joints which you may, have come across during the course of your Standard, Grade., Click on one of the boxes to find out more about the, ten joints detailed here., , design & technology @ boclair academy