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DOUBLE CLOTH, Double cloths are fabrics in which there are at least two series of warp and two series of weft, , threads. One series, , of warp and weft, , and weft engaged inproducing, , engaged, , in, , producing face layer of cloth and another series of warp, back layer-ef clothr and thus foming separate face cloth and, separate back, , cloth. These twlayers may loosely or inticately stitch together. If it is loosely sttched it can be identifed, , as diffeient entity. If it is intricaiely stitched it appears to fomn a complex single structure., USES: 1) Double cloth weaves improves the themal insulation value of the fabric. Since two, , layers of the cloth, , formed, , above the other, il is possible to increase more threads per unit, space., which in turn leads to give good thermal insulation. 2) The existence of two series of threads in each, , direction, , are, , one, , improves the capacity for producing, , intricate effect using different colour, , or, , structural, , CONSTRUCTION OF DOUBLE CLOTHWITHOUT STITCHING, Decide the, , proportion of face, , and back threads., , Decide the weaves of face and back, layers., Decide suitable stitching to sttch face and back, , layer., , Example:1, Proporion of face and back = 1:1, , Face weave 2/4Twill, , Back weave, , 3/3 Twill, , Stitching No stitching., Total ends, , and picks, , =, , 6 +6, , 12, , ( 1: 1), , Procedure:, 1) Face picks interlaces with Face ends as per the decided Face weave:, On all the face, , picks,, , all the back ends, , 2) Back picks interlaces with Back ends, On all the back, , picks, all, , are, , as, , the Face ends, , down., , (Except stitching), , per the decided Back, are, , lifted up., , Stages of Construction:, , weave, , (Except stitching), , A- Representface weave 2/4 twill, B- Represent back weave 3/3 twill, , C-Repeat in 12 X 12, at the margins face and back threads are indicated and back, , threads, , are, , lightly shaded, , for easy identification., , D- Face, , weave is introduced in face ends and face picks:, on all face picks, back ends are, left blank (procedure, , E- Back, , -, , 1), , is introduced in back ends and back, all back picks, all face ends are raised, weave, , F-On, Stage F detemines, Example: 2, , picks. (Procedure -2), (procedure -2), the separation, of the two layers., , Proporion of face and back 1:1: Face weave, Stitching No stitching: Total ends and picks =, =, , =, , 1/3 Twill, , Back weave 2/2 Twill, , =, , 4+4=8(1: 1), , Example: 3, , Proporton, Stitching, =, , of face and back, No, , stitching:, , =, , Total, , 1:1: Face and back, , weave, , ends and picks = 8, 8+, , =8, , thread Twil,, , 16 ( 1: 1), , changes.

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CLSSIFICATION OF DOUBLE, CLOTH, According to the method followed in stitching the two layers, the double cloth is classifi 2d into, different varneties. They. are, , 1) Self stitched Double cloth., , 2) Cloth interchanging Deuble cloth., 3) Tubular cloth., 4) Double width cloth., 5) 2 ply cloth., , 6) Thread interchanging Double cloth., 7) Double cloth stitched with extra threads.( Centre stitched Double cloth), 8) Alternate double and single cloth., , 1)SELF STITCHED DOUBLE CLOTH, In, , foming double cloth without stitching, the two procedures followed are, , 1) Face picks interlaces with Face ends as per the decided Face weave, .On all the face picks, all the back ends are down. (Except stitching), 2) Back picks interlaces with Back ends as per the decided Back weave:, On all the back, , In, , picks, all the Face ends are lifted up. (Except stitching), self stitched Double cloth, the stitching of the face cloth layer with back cloth, layer is achieved ei.ner by, a), , Instead of leaving down all the back ends on the face picks, (as given in procedure -1), Few back ends are raisd over each face pick. Or, , b) Instead of raising up ali the face ends on the back picks, (as given in procedure -2), , Pew face ends are dropped down on each back pick. Or, c)Bpth a & b altemately ombined., , o, , o, , a) Few back ends are raised on, , Face pick, , b) Few face ends, , are, , dropped, , down on Back pick, , a) & b) alternately, , 21 CLOTH INTERCHANGING DOUBLE CLOTH, In this, , style,, , double cioth is formed without stitching in some parts of the fabric. In the next, part,, the top layer of the cloth in the first part change as bottom layer and at the same time the bottom layer of, the cloth in the, , first part change as top layer, occurs oniy at the inteichanging, places, , which is described, , as, , cioth, , interchanging., , The, , stitching

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3)TUBULAR CLOTH, Double cloths weave constructed in, 1), , 1face and 1back order for weft, (warp is in 1:1), , 2) without any stitching and, 3) when woven with single shuttle contnuously, result in tubular structure. In full width of,the double cloth, stitching occurs only on both the selvedges, making tube effect., , Right side selvedge, , Left side selvedge, , 4) DOU LEWIDTH CLOTH, I n full width of the double cloth, stitching occuis only at one selvedge and at the other selvedge,, both thelayers are free. When taken out of the loom, both the layers can be separated from one side and, resultingthe width equally doubled that of cloth width on loom., Double cloths weave constructed in, 1) 2 face and 2 back order for weft (warp is in 1:1), 2) without any stitching and, , 3) when woven with single shuttle continuously result in double widthi structure., , Left side selvedge, , Right side selvedge, , 5)2 PLY CLOTH, In full width of double, , cloth, sttching does not occur in any part of the cloth including the selvedge., Hence hoth the layers of the double cloth are completely free. When taken out of the loom, both the layers, can be separated independently resulting two cloths., Double cloths weave constructed in, 1) 1 face and 1 back order for weft (warp is in 1:1), 2) without any stitching and, 3) when, , woven, , with two separate shuttles, , one, , for face and, , other for back,, , result in two ply structure

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Right side selvedge, , Left side selvedge, , 6)THREAD INTERCHANGING DOUBLE CLOTH, In this style, in some parts of the fabric, double cloth is fomed without stitching. In the next part of, the double cloth, the back pick of previous part interchanges as face pick and the face pick of the previous, , part interchange as back pick with put any interchange in the ends. Otherwise, the back end of one part, , interchanges as face end in the next part and the face end of the previous part interchange as back end, , with out any interchange in the picks. Since the threads aré interchanging insteadcomplete interchanging, of fabric, this type of double cloth is called as thread interchànging double cloth., , DDOUBLE CLOTH STITCHED WITH EXTRA THREADS(CENTRE STTCHED DOUBLE CLOTH), in these, , fabrics, third series of threads is introduced either in warp or in weft directon, who_e, function is to stitch together the two layers of double cloth formed with out aný self stitching. These, sitching threads lie between the face and back cloth moving to face and back cloth at regular intervals, achieves the required stitching., , ************a******o***, , ************°*s*******e******, , 8)ALTERNATE DOUBLE AND SINGLE CLOTH, In this style, in some places, distinct and separate two layers are fommed and in the next place,, tihese two layers are merged together as single cloth

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SELF STITCHED DOUBLE CLOTH, self stitched Double cloth. the stitching of the face cloth layer with, , n, , back cloth layer is achieved, , eiher by., A Anstead of leaving down all the back ends on the face picks, fas, given in procedure -1), ewbask endsare raised overeach face pick., Whie raising back end over each face pick, car is taken to see that his, back end, foat on the, face side is concealed by (covered by) the face end fioat. Or, B) instead of raising up all the face ends on the back picks, (as given in, procedure -2), Few face ends are dropped down on each back pick., VJhile dropping face end over each back pick, care is taken to see that this face end float, on the, ., , back side is concealed by (covered by) the back end float. Or, C) 30th A&B alternately combined., CONSTRUCTION OF DOUBLE CLOTH WITH STITCHINGG, Decide the proportion of face and back threads. Decide the weaves of face and back, layers., Decide suitable stitching to stitch face and back layer., Exampl:1, roportion of face and back 1:1 Face weave 214 Twill, Back weave 3/3 Twill, ., , .", , =, , Totalends and picks =6+6 12 (1:1), , Procedure:, 1) Façe picks interlaces with Face ends as per the decided, Face weave:., On atl the face picks, all the back ends are down. (Except stitching), , 2) Back picks interlaces with Back ends as per the decided Back weave:, On all the back picks, all the Face ends are lifted up. (E>xcept stitching), Stages of Construction:, , A-Represent face weave 2/ 4 twill, B-Represent back weave 3/3 twill, C Repeat in 12X 12; at the margins face and back threads are indicated, , threads are lightly shaded for easy identification., D-Face weave is introduced in face ends and face, picks, on all face picks, back ends are, left blank ( procedure-1), E- Back weave is introduced in back, ends and back picks., (Procedure -2, all, back, F-On, picks, all face ends are raised (procedure 2), , Stage, , and back, , F, , detemines the separation of, the two layers., G- Face end is, dropped down on Back pick. (OR), H- Back end is raised on Face, pick., , Example: 2, , Proportion of face and back 1:1; Face weave, Total ends and picks =4 +4 8 (1: 1), =, , 1/3 Twill, , Back weave 2/2Twill, , =, , Example:3, , Proportion of face and, , Total ends, , and, , picks, , =, , back, , 1:1: Face and back, 8 +8 16 (1: 1), =, , weave, , =, , 8 thread, , Twi

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A, , X, , X, , XX, , F, B, , X X, XX, , F, B, F, , XX, , B, , B, , oo o, oo o, o oo, , C, , B, , LFBFBE BF|BFBFJB, , ***, , T, , o, B, , B, B, , F, B, , B, *****'***, , x, B, , ****, , x, B, , *, , F, , F, B, B, , FBF BF BF BFB, , B, , E, , BF B F B F BF B, E

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B, , x, , #o, , oB, , #o, , B, , B, F, , B, , B, , F, , B, , #, X, , 3, , F B F8 FB FBFB F B, , FBFE F BF 8F BF B, G, , #o #o #, , #, #, , #, , #, , #o B, o, , #, , o #o, , x, , x, , #, , B, , #|o B, F, , #o #o #, , B, , #o#o # o, X, , #o #o #, , #, , B, , F, , FBFBFBF BFBEJB, , E, , BFIBFB FBF|BIF B, , G, X= Face picks interlaces with Face ends as per the decided Faceweave:, , OBack picks interlaces with Back, #, , On ali the back, Face end is, , picks, all, , ends as per thie decided Back weave:, , the Face ends, , are, , dropped down on Back pick., , Back end is raised on Face pick, , lifted up. (Exceptstching)

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EXAMPLE :2, , 3B, , B, , x, , F, , F, , #B B, , B, , B, , B, , F, A, , x, , F B F B FBFB, #, , #, , #, , EBFB F BF B, #o#, , B, , x, , #, , #oB, , F, , #, #, , #o #.o, , o, , x, B, , o # o |#, , #, x, , FBFB F BF |B, , BF BF BF B, EXAMPLE3, , #o, , H, , #, , o, , #, , #, , #, , # #, , # o B, , xx, O#, , #, , X, , F, , O#, , OB, , X, * *, , #O# 0# O B, , xx, , x, #, , #O# 0 #, O#, , O #, , O, , #, , #O# o#C #, X, , FB, , B, , X, , X, , #, , O # O#, , #, , #, , X, , F BF BFBF BF B, , B

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INTER CHANGING DOUBLE CLOTH, , These are the cloths produced by the way of interchanging the layers of the double cloth to give, s4itching. n interchanging places, the clolhs are very firnly united but in between the interchanging, places, the two layers remain separate. In interchanging double cloth, sometme a paricular end or pick, occupy he face position and sonetines occupy the back positüion. Henco in this structure apari from, , designating the threads by face and back, it is also important to designate these threads by their colour for, easy identification., , INTERCHANGING DOUBLE EQUALPLAIN CLOTH(ICDPC), These are the interchanging double cioth in which both the face and back layer is ir plain weave, , This style is used for vweaving suiling. coatiny and furnishings in design consisting of stripe, check, spot or, , more elaborate figure elfects. In this varidy, dilterent effects can be achieved by retaining constant 1:1, colouring arangement in the warp and weff. The desired colour in the required place is achieved by using, different lifts., , In any ICDPC construction, it is preferable to commence the design first by constructing a, , simplifed and condensed motif to indicale the colour of the plain cloth layer obteined in lace and tackof, any paiticular area., ., , STRIPE EFFECT, , Cloth Interchanging place, L+L=E, D, , #, , D, , D+DE, , BB, , L+L B, , #XDB, , DF, , LF, , X #, , #X#|L B|, , DB, , F, , X, , LDLD, LFBFB, F= FACE THREADS, L LIGHT THREADs, 1, , =, , X, #, , #, , DF, #LB, , L DLD, , BFBF, 8 BACK THREADS, D DARK THREADS, , FACE PICK INTERLACES WITH, FACE ENDS IN PLAIN WNEAVE., BACK PICK INTERLACES WITH BACK ENDS IN PLAIN VWEAVE, FOR ALL BACK PICKS ALL, FACE ENDS ARE UP, FOR ALL FACE PICKS ALL BACK ENDS ARE, , DOWN.)

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The motif shows stnpe efect in which lefi side shows the doubie cioth in which the face layeris, fomed by ight ends and light picks. The back iayer is fomed by dark ends and dark picks. The right side, shows the double cloth in which the face, , layer is, , fo:ned by dark ends and, , dark picks. Light ends and light, , picks form the back layer., 4 ends and 4, , picks, , in face and 2threads to, in the, , margin, , are, , taken to indicate the, , fom plain in, , the, , colouring, , back., , weave, , because 2 threads aie required, to fom, , order of threads is indicated, , 1, , light, , plain, , and, , dark. As per the colour, indicaied by the letters "F" and "B". In the left side, because in this side ight, layer foms the face. Then, the dark ends and dark, are, picks marked with "8" because in this side dark layer forms the back., In the right side, design, the light ends and picks are marked with "B" because in, this side light, layer foms the back. Then the dark ends and dark, picks are marked with "F* because in this side dark, layer forms the face., as, , forming face and back layer, the threads are again, design, the light ends and picks are marked with "F", , As per the procedures for, producing the double cloth, face, 1), weave plain i s, introduced in face ends and face picks of both the sides., ( - marks), 2) back weave plain i s introduced in back ends and, back picks of both the sides, (x- marks), 3) all the face ends are raised on all back, , picks. ( # marks), a) in the left side design al! the light ends ( face, ends) are lifted on dark picks ( back, picks), b) in the right side design all the dark ends ( face, ends) are lited on light picks (back picks), This third, -, , procedure is called as separating lifts which makes the threads, face and back and in turn results in cloth, interchange between the two parts, , interchange between, , CROSS-OVER EFFECT, X, , D D FE, L, , DF, , #L B, , F, , L B, , B, , DL D, CLOTH INTER CHANGING, , BF BF, #xDB, , E, D, , PLACE, , F, , D B, , D B, F, , DLD, BF B

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CHECKEFFECT, , BL, , #, , FU, , X, , BLx#, , #, , LIDLD, , LD1LD, , LF, , 2BF3|FJFIBF|B.11, B D, 1, , FL, , DD, , L, , DF, , FL, , LD L D, 1F B F B, , L+L, , EXAMPLE -2:, EXAMPLE, , # X#LB, , BD#x #, , 2 D+D, , -, , T# x, , 3:, , Face weave =2/2 Twill Back weave, Face weave = 2/4 Twill Back, weave, , EXAMPIE 4, , Face, , weave, , =, , LIDLD, BF 8F, , LB, , 2, , 2/2 Twill, , and interchange:, 3/3 Twill and interchange. ", , 4/4 Twill Back, , weave, , =, , 2/6Twill and interchange, , TIREAD INTERCHANGING DOUBLE CLOTH, , In this style, in some parls of the fabric, double cloth is fomed without stiching.In the neaxt part of, the double cloth, the back pick of, previous part interchanges as face pick and the face pick of, the previous, part interchange as back pick with out any interchange in the ends. Otherwise, the, back end of one part, interchanges as face end in the next part and the face end of the previous part, end, , out any interchange in the picks. Since the threads are interchanging insteadinterchange as tack, complete interchanging, of fabric, this type of double cloth is called as thread, ir:terchanging double cloth., The procedure to be followed for constructing this, style is similar to the procedure folowed for, cloth, terchanging. For constructing thread interchanging double equal plain cloth, 1 face and 1 back, thread.ng combined with 1 light and 1 dark colouring is taken., with, , In the first, , part of the, , cloth the face, , back, , layer is fomed with ight ends and light picks, combination. The, of, part idth of the cloth, the face layer is, fdrmed with the, pick combination alternately. The back layer is with the same, , layer is with dark and dark. In the next, same light ends but with both light and dark, dark, , ends but with, , both, , light, , and dark, , effect with warp constant- weft, In the next, , pick combination alternately. This style, , inte rchanging"., , can, , be identified, , as, , "Stripe, , style, in the first part of the cloth the face layer is formed with, light ends and ight picks, combinaion. The back layer is with dark and, dark as in the previous case. In the next, part of length of the, cloth, the face layer is fomed with the, same light picks but with both, light and dark end combination, altern: tely. The back, layer is with the same dark picks but with both, light and dark end combinaion, alternately. This style can be dentüfied as "Cross over effect with, weft, constant- warp, interchanging

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COMPARISON BETWEEN TUBULAR, DQUBLE WIDTH, 2PLY DOUBLE, TUBULAR CLOTH., , DOUBLE WIDTH CLOTH, , CLOTHS, , 2 PLY CLOTH, , In full, , width of the double cloth,; In full width of the double cloth,, | In full width of double cloth,., stitching occurs only on both the stitching cccurs only at one, stitching does not occur in any, , selvedges making tulbe elfect., , sclvedge, , and, , at, , the, , other, , selvedge. hoth the layers are, free, S, , S, , S, , part of the clóth ircluding the, , selvedge, , ss, , S, , j-, , #, , #, , B, , x, , X, , #, , #, , B, , *****1, , #, , B, , F, , #, , B, , x, , B, Warp, Weft, , F B, , FBFB, , 1 face 1 back, 1 face: 1 back, , Warp, , Weft 2, , Single shuttle is used in weaving, , 1 face : 1 back, , face : 2 back, *-, , ********, , Single shuttle is used in weaving, , #, , B, , EBF1B]J, Warp 1'face: 1back, Weft, , 1 face: 1 back, , Two shutles are used; one for, face picks and other for back, , picks, DOUBLE CLOTH STITCHED WITH EXTRA THREADS (CENTRE STITCHED, DOUBLE CLOTH), In these fabrics, third series of, threads is introduced either in warp or in weft, directon, whose, , function, is to stitch. together the two layers of double cloth formed, stitching threads lie between the face and back cloth moving to face, , with out any self, stitching. These, and back cloth at, regular intervals, , achieves the required stitching., Double cloth without stitching is constructed first., The stitching threads, may be used either in wap, directon or in weft direction. For every one, of, repeat unstitched double cloth one stitching thread is, used., When warp-stitching thread is used, it is raised, **., , up for all the, , back picks except for any one pick. In, down, to, dropped, sitch the back layer with the, stitching end., Simila:ly the stitching end is left down for all the face picks, except for any one pick. In this.one face pick,, the sttching end is raised, up to sttch the face layer with the, stitching end. Thus the stitching end connects, the face and back, layer and making it, this, , oe, , back, , pick,, , the, , slitching, , end is, , inseparable.

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o, , #, , l, , =, , ."*., , x, , CENTRE STITCHING, WARP THREADIS, RAISED ON ALL BACK PICKS, BUT, LEFT, , x, , F, , B, , DOWN, , FOR ONE PICK, , =CENTRE STITCHING, , WARP THREAD IS, , LEFT DOWN FOR ALL, FACE PICKS, BUT RAISED ON ONE, PICK, , B, , B, , FBIFBF BFlBF|BF Bc, In this, , style,, , in some, , ALTERNATE DOUBLE AND SINGLE CLOTH, places, distinct, , and, , separate two layers, layers are merged, as single cloth., together, In, , these fwo, , are, , fomed and in the nexi, place,, , constructing this structure, double cloth weave, cloth, single, produced without stitching is, weave. While combining care is, combined with, taken to see that the total, weave and, single cloth weave get balanced., intersections of the doube cloth, For example, double, equal plain cloth without, stitching can be combined with 2 &, 2up 2 down double cloth can, be combined with 4 &, 2 mat, 4 mat weave., weave, combined in stripe or crossover, The, two, or check form., weaves taken may be, , CHECKEFFECT, B*****{, , #xDB, F, , X, , oo, , D+D DOUBLE CLOTH, , B, , FL, , FBF|B, D, , #, , X, , oo, o, , B D#x, , 2, , MAT WNEAVE, , EL, 1, , D B, , L DLD, , 2, , 1 LtL, , #, , LDLD, , FBFB, , 2, , 1

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RELATIVE PROPORIION AND THICKNESS, GF THE FACE AND, , The relative, , proporton, , BACK THREADS, , ad thickness of the, face and back threads in the' double cloth is, the, to, by, weight be added to the face texture. The, decided, thickness of the threads relates wth, the threads and vice-versa., the proportion of, West, is, Imostly.decided by the weft inserton method, loom and production, in the, -, , proportion, , available, , speed., , The most cornmon, proportions are, E. 1 Face and 1 Back in, warp-- 1 Face and 1 Back in weft., B. 2 Face and 1 Back in, 2 Face and 1 Back in weft., warp, C.3 Face and 1 Back, --3, - - -, , in' warp, , D. 2 Face and 2 Back in, warp, E. 1 Face and 1 Back ir, , warp, , Face and 1 Back in, weft., , ---2 Face and, , in weft., , 2 Face and 2 Back in weft., , Relaive thickness of the face and back, yarn is, , In 1 face and 1 back, , proporton,, , 2 Back, , proportionate to relative number of threads per unit space., , proportion, the count of the yarn used in face and back is, equal. In 2 Face and 1Back, the back yam, be, may, proportionately ticker than the face yarn. If 2/40 is used in face,, is used in back because 2 threads, of, to one ihread of, is, , 2/40, , 2/20, , equal, , 2/20., , SHUTTLE CHANGING BOX MOTION FOR DOUBLE CLOTH, weaving, if same type of weft yarn is used for face and back, it, can bé woven by, having single shuttle. When two different types of yam is, used for face and back in 1: 1, proporion of weft, weaving, it becomes compulsory to, the, In double cloth, , motion, , change, , on both sides of the loom. In Power, , shuttle for every pick, which, Looms having this type of box, , requíre shuttle change, , box, , motion en both sides are very, costly. In handloom shuttle changing can be done for, every pick. But it leads to less, productiorn., Hence in double cloth, 1 face and 1 back order of weft, is, weaving converted as 2 face and 2 back, order of weft weaving keeping 1 face and 1, back in, warp, , unchanged., , CHECK EFFECT, , F D, , F D |, BL, , #, , X#, #, , BLIX#, LDLD, 2, , BF B F, , 1 L+L, , D+D, , BD, , #, , #x#, , LDLD, , FBFB, , L+L, , 1, , X, , B D # X #, , FL, 2 D+DD, , DF, , # x # L, , FL, , DL D, , FBF B|, , x, , B, , #LB, , LDLD, , B FBF, , 2

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Selection, , SELECTION OF FACE AND BACK WEAVES, , of face and back weave, is, , used in face and back threads., in 1 face and 1 back thread, , repeat and equal, , again depends, , upon the rclative, , proportion, , arrangement,, , intersection per repeat., 2intersection) can be used for back., , the face and back, weaves may have, If 3 /3 twil, (2intersection) is used for, , of the, , threads, , equal threads per, , face,, , 2, , / 4, , twill, , in 2 face and 1 back thread, , arrangement, the back weave intersections must be, more than, intersections in the total commen number of, threads taken for both face and back., Example1: Face weave 3 !3 twili, Back weave =2/1 twit!., iotal 6 threads, face weave, coniains 2 intersectons and back, weave conlains 4, Example 2: Face weave 4 i4 twil!, intersecüons, , face weave, In, , the, , =, , in total 8 threads,, , Back weave 2/2 wil., face weave contains 2 intersections and back weave, , contains 4, , intersections, , EXAMPLE:1, , EXAMPLE:2, , Xx, X, , XXx F, xx, , X, xX, , xx, , x, , x, , X, , x, , XX, , .XXx, , x, , xx, , FFBFF BF FB, , XX xx, , x, , x, X, , XXx x, xxxx, FFBF IFBF iFBFFB, , F